Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Mark Rolofson on August 29, 1985
Page Views: 595 total · 13/month
Shared By: Mark Rolofson on Nov 20, 2020
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


1 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!) DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Bitty Buttress closure 2/1/24 DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is the hardest friction slab climb that I have ever done. I first attempted the climb on toprope in 1981 with Kent Lugbill (if my memory serves me right). We were able to fight our way up the vertical start, only to find the slab to be impossible. The invention of sticky rubber rock shoes changed everything. I returned in Fall 1984 & successfully toproped the climb in a pair of Boreal Fires. Then in the Summer 1985, I placed 3 bolts, plus a #1 RP on rappel to protect the climb. After a few attempts, I successfully led the route. Sticking to the moves past the upper 2 bolts felt magical. I repeated the route on numerous occasions & flailed on other attempts. Temperature, shoes, & mindset are everything on such an insecure slab. In 1988, I replaced the fixed #1 RP with what is now the 2nd bolt. In November 1992, I replaced the original bolts that were 1/4" buttonheads & a 3/8" Star drive in, plus added the 2 bolt anchor.

Begin by climbing a moderate thin crack (RPs and/or small stoppers & a red Alien) to its end. Clip the 1st bolt on a vertical face. It may be possible to stickclip the 1st bolt with a long extension pole. 5.11+ moves lead up the face to gain the slab above the 2nd bolt. 5.12 friction moves, with tiny finger edges, ascend the high angle slab, past the upper 2 bolts, to a large sloping dish. A final hard move gains a stance in the dish. Continue up 20 feet of moderate (5.6) slab climbing with good holds, to a crack. A bomber 1" cam (red Alien) can be placed here. Finish up an easy wide crack. Look for face holds in the crack.

Location Suggest change

It is 15 feet right of Treetop Landing & 15-20 feet left of Peapod.

Protection Suggest change

4 bolts, plus RPs (steel nuts) and /or small wired stoppers, two Red Aliens (or 1" cams), and 2 Goldshuts.

Photos

0 Comments