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Routes in Bitty Buttress

A's Jax T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bitty Buttress T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Buzz, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Creeping Obscurity T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Electricity T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Holy Ascension T,TR 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c C1-2
Jagged Ascension aka The Hand is Quicker than the Eye T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jaguary T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Jam Left T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jitters, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lorax, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Milk the Quartz for Pints T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Moby Dike S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Peach Monkey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Peapod T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Return To Sender S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Reveille T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Right Crack or Last Crack (aka Mirage?) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rise and Shine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
South T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spins, The T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Treetop Landing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Voices Carry T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Welcome Home S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Jim Redo
Page Views: 3,659 total · 20/month
Shared By: Jim Redo on Jan 29, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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2017 Seasonal Closures Lifted! Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This route is to the right of The Buzz (5.12d) in the amphitheatre right of the actual Bitty Buttress route. Scramble up to a ledge below a bolt about ten feet above you and belay. Climb up and clip the first bolt and gain a semi-exposed ledge. Clip the second bolt, and lay down and unclip the first bolt to reduce rope drag. The meat of the climb is three boulder problems separated by rests with the rests getting worse after each boulder problem. Probably, the most continuously steep route in the canyon and maybe a stiff 13b at that.

Protection

10 bolts. Reach down and unclip the first bolt after you clip the second to reduce rope drag.

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Cedar Wright
  5.13b
Cedar Wright  
  5.13b
This is one of the best sport climbs in Boulder Canyon that I have done; super steep, sustained, and challenging, not to mention impressive looking. The start free of the "glue bridge" entails one of the shittiest finger locks you should ever hope to grab, the middle features a cryptic hand jam to sloper sequence, and the finish is climatic, with a wild reach to the lip of the roof like feature that the Lorax ascends. The 12a to the left makes a good warm up and is classic in its own right. As an added bonus, you get to commune with the mountain pigeons that live in the chimney! Nov 27, 2012
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Good to hear. Nov 25, 2010
I ran into a well-known local climber the other day in the Blob area who claimed that he had just removed the glue feature from the starting crack/seam. My guess is that it is now a bit harder. Nov 23, 2010
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
The glue should go. It's a deliberately created hold that doesn't appear to be necessary. Until it's cleaned up, it's an AO route. Nov 6, 2006
What's the story with the cement/glue "bridge" feature in the crack between bolts 3 and 4 (2nd and 3rd off the ledge) at the first crux? I definitely don't see any purpose for it except to improve a horrendously bad finger lock. Jun 9, 2006