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Routes in Bitty Buttress

A's Jax T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bitty Buttress T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Buzz, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Creeping Obscurity T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Electricity T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Holy Ascension T,TR 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c C1-2
Jagged Ascension aka The Hand is Quicker than the Eye T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jaguary T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Jam Left T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jitters, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lorax, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Milk the Quartz for Pints T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Moby Dike S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Peach Monkey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Peapod T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Return To Sender S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Reveille T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Right Crack or Last Crack (aka Mirage?) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rise and Shine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
South T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spins, The T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Treetop Landing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Voices Carry T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Welcome Home S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Mark Tarrant, Richard Wright
Page Views: 3,879 total, 21/month
Shared By: Mark Tarrant on Dec 13, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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2017 Seasonal Closures Lifted! Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Start at the end of the gully about 70' up from The Buzz. Rise and Shine climbs the first half of an old aid route 40' left of The Lorax, and then stays on the face where the aid route moves right. Stem across a slot and clip the first bolt (long sling). Maneuver up into the dihedral system past 5 bolts (.10d) to a good ledge and a rest. Continue up a pumpy face to a crux at bolt #9, and then hang on 'til the finish.

The well-protected climbing is deceptively steep and continuous on good holds the entire way. There are no .12 moves on it, but the accumulation of .11 moves make it feel like .12a when stringing it all together. The climbs in this alcove get great morning sun and little wind making them good winter routes.

Protection

11 bolts plus 2-bolt anchor, 90'. Use long slings on first two bolts.
Dean Cool
Boulder, CO
 
Dean Cool   Boulder, CO
 
I would give this climb 3 starts if it weren't for the rotten rock at the 2nd-4th clips. Careful, but the upper section is great and a little sustained. Nov 3, 2014
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Definitely fun climbing and a great route. Certainly tricky moving off the ledge and onto the upper headwall. Great fun. Be very careful of a loose, microwave-sized, loose block in the lower dihedral. It's a death block for sure and used as an obvious hand hold and foot placement as you moved past. Climb with caution.... The upper headwall is enjoyable face climbing with a fin finish liebacking a slanting crack in the ceiling.... Jul 11, 2012
Mark Wiranowski
  5.12a
Mark Wiranowski  
  5.12a
Excellent climb. Very well bolted, and no clips are hard to make. In late May, the climb gets some morning shade from the Lorax roof, but the belay alcove is hot. Shade by 1 pm. For rope drag, consider clipping the first bolt on the regular (not direct) start with a long runner, then move over to the direct start and clip the third bolt with a long runner (i.e. skip the second bolt on the non-direct start). This keeps your rope off the rock. The move off the ledge (6th bolt) is probably the thinnest, but the climbing doesn't really let up after that. Consider differentially resting your right hand (sacrifice the left a little), to save for the top, where it's still pumpy. Also, you can move right while still below the top bolt then clip from the right, rather than working up the rounded L-facing arete. Otherwise, you have to downclimb a few moves to go right to the anchors anyway. May 30, 2012
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
 
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
 
If it weren't for the crappy rock and blocky, awkward climbing down low ,this would be a 3 star route. It's worth the time though. Oct 16, 2011
ac
 
ac  
 
This may be the best 12a in Boulder Canyon, reminiscent of limestone climbing if you can believe it. And honest at the grade too. I thought the crux, unquestionably, was getting started on the upper face at bolt #6. The upper part is very pumpy featuring a burly match on a sloping horn... maybe a redpoint crux for some, but not as technically difficult as lower down. Watch out for some bad rock in the initial corner. The trad variation to the upper part is excellent, and worthy of 3 stars as well. Aug 3, 2005