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Rise and Shine

5.12a, Sport, 90 ft,  Avg: 3.1 from 32 votes
FA: Mark Tarrant, Richard Wright
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Bitty Buttress
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details

Description

Start at the end of the gully about 70' up from The Buzz. Rise and Shine climbs the first half of an old aid route 40' left of The Lorax, and then stays on the face where the aid route moves right. Stem across a slot and clip the first bolt (long sling). Maneuver up into the dihedral system past 5 bolts (.10d) to a good ledge and a rest. Continue up a pumpy face to a crux at bolt #9, and then hang on 'til the finish.

The well-protected climbing is deceptively steep and continuous on good holds the entire way. There are no .12 moves on it, but the accumulation of .11 moves make it feel like .12a when stringing it all together. The climbs in this alcove get great morning sun and little wind making them good winter routes.

Protection

11 bolts plus 2-bolt anchor, 90'. Use long slings on first two bolts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Rise & Shine overview.
[Hide Photo] Rise & Shine overview.
Doug Sinor in action.
[Hide Photo] Doug Sinor in action.
Patrick cruising home on Rise and Shine in The Hot House on Bitty Buttress.
[Hide Photo] Patrick cruising home on Rise and Shine in The Hot House on Bitty Buttress.
Patrick, setting up the exit move.
[Hide Photo] Patrick, setting up the exit move.
Patrick, dancing into the crux gaston.
[Hide Photo] Patrick, dancing into the crux gaston.
Climber on the start to Rise and Shine.
[Hide Photo] Climber on the start to Rise and Shine.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

ac
 
[Hide Comment] This may be the best 12a in Boulder Canyon, reminiscent of limestone climbing if you can believe it. And honest at the grade too. I thought the crux, unquestionably, was getting started on the upper face at bolt #6. The upper part is very pumpy featuring a burly match on a sloping horn... maybe a redpoint crux for some, but not as technically difficult as lower down. Watch out for some bad rock in the initial corner. The trad variation to the upper part is excellent, and worthy of 3 stars as well. Aug 3, 2005
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
 
[Hide Comment] If it weren't for the crappy rock and blocky, awkward climbing down low ,this would be a 3 star route. It's worth the time though. Oct 16, 2011
Mark Wiranowski
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Excellent climb. Very well bolted, and no clips are hard to make. In late May, the climb gets some morning shade from the Lorax roof, but the belay alcove is hot. Shade by 1 pm. For rope drag, consider clipping the first bolt on the regular (not direct) start with a long runner, then move over to the direct start and clip the third bolt with a long runner (i.e. skip the second bolt on the non-direct start). This keeps your rope off the rock. The move off the ledge (6th bolt) is probably the thinnest, but the climbing doesn't really let up after that. Consider differentially resting your right hand (sacrifice the left a little), to save for the top, where it's still pumpy. Also, you can move right while still below the top bolt then clip from the right, rather than working up the rounded L-facing arete. Otherwise, you have to downclimb a few moves to go right to the anchors anyway. May 30, 2012
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Definitely fun climbing and a great route. Certainly tricky moving off the ledge and onto the upper headwall. Great fun. Be very careful of a loose, microwave-sized, loose block in the lower dihedral. It's a death block for sure and used as an obvious hand hold and foot placement as you moved past. Climb with caution.... The upper headwall is enjoyable face climbing with a fin finish liebacking a slanting crack in the ceiling.... Jul 11, 2012
Dean Cool
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] I would give this climb 3 starts if it weren't for the rotten rock at the 2nd-4th clips. Careful, but the upper section is great and a little sustained. Nov 3, 2014