Type: Sport, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mark Tarrant, Richard Wright
Page Views: 2,112 total · 11/month
Shared By: Mark Tarrant on Dec 31, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details

Description

This 2 pitch sport route starts about 40' up and left of the Bitty Buttress route, as if starting on A's Jax, staying right, out of the unpleasant dihedral. Facing almost due south, it gets lots of sunshine and is somewhat protected from westerly winds.

Pitch 1: 5.11a, 90', 9 bolts. Start with 3 bolts on the slab/fin right of the dihedral, then stem left across the corner onto a steep wall, hitting an unusual crux at bolt 5. A nifty slab (.9-) takes you up to the anchor. This is an excellent pitch all by itself. It's probably best to follow rather than lower.

Pitch 2: 5.12a/b, 45', 6 bolts. Some 5.9 leads up to the 4th bolt where a height-dependant move is encountered (harder if under 6' tall). An interesting sequence sets up the crux toss at bolt 5. This pitch is fairly steep but not overly powerful--some thoughtful, technical movement is required to "send". Though it's a reasonable redpoint, without tic-marks or beta the onsight should deliver that special 5.12 feeling.

Lower off, then rap the first pitch.

Protection

10 draws plus anchors after each pitch.

Photos