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Routes in Bitty Buttress
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A Day At The Crag T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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A's Jax T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bitty Buttress T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Buzz, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Creeping Obscurity T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Electricity T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Holy Ascension T,TR 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c C1-2 |
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Jagged Ascension aka The Hand is Quicker than the Eye T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Jaguary T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Jam Left T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Jitters, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Lorax, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Moby Dike S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Peach Cobbler S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Peapod T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Quartz Movement T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Razor Hein Stick T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Return To Sender S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Reveille T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Right Crack or Last Crack (aka Mirage?) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rise and Shine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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South T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Speaks For The Trees S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b |
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Spins, The T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Treetop Landing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Voices Carry T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Welcome Home S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 270 ft (82 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 875 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | George Bracksieck on Feb 5, 2015 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2025 - Bitty Buttress, Blob, &, Security Risk reopened. Eagle Rock remains closed.
Details
On 3/14/25: Bitty Buttress, Blob, & SR reopened. Eagle Rock is closed.
2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk closed for raptor nesting.
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: USFS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock is closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk closed for raptor nesting.
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: USFS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock is closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Access Issue: Bitty Buttress closure 2/1/24
Details
Seasonal restrictions in Boulder Canyon to protect nesting birds of prey
Boulder, Colo. (2/1/24) – to protect nesting golden eagles, the U.S. Forest Service is implementing annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning Feb. 1, 2024. The closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon.
Per K. Reid Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Arapaho & Roosevelt NFS: as of 4/15/22, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are now open.
Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing through July 31, 2022.
Boulder, Colo. (2/1/24) – to protect nesting golden eagles, the U.S. Forest Service is implementing annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning Feb. 1, 2024. The closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon.
Per K. Reid Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Arapaho & Roosevelt NFS: as of 4/15/22, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are now open.
Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing through July 31, 2022.
Description
On 30 Jan. 2015, David Light and I were looking for a warm-up on a cold morning, before climbing Reveille on the adjacent Amphitheater. About 50 feet right of Creeping Obscurity, David led up, crossing a thick, horizontal vein of milky quartz. He continued up, meandering to find protection and avoid solid-looking granite dinner plates (5.8). He belayed on a broken ledge at about 110 feet. Another loose pitch (5.6) ended on the left-descending ramp, about 20 feet right of the relatively tall ponderosa pine. We descended west, partway down the ramp to the nadir of the steeper upper wall of the Annex.
The third pitch began right of a large juniper tucked into an alcove. David led up into a large pocket of milky quartz, then diagonaled right before heading straight up, to the top of the upper wall (5.9-). The whole climb has interesting moves complicated by lots of the powdery lichen that lubes crucial footholds.
The third pitch began right of a large juniper tucked into an alcove. David led up into a large pocket of milky quartz, then diagonaled right before heading straight up, to the top of the upper wall (5.9-). The whole climb has interesting moves complicated by lots of the powdery lichen that lubes crucial footholds.
Location
The first two pitches lie on the right side of The Annex. The third pitch begins to the right of a large juniper tucked into the nadir of the upper tier, on the west-descending ramp.
We topped out on a plateau, east of the summit of the Bitty Buttress. We walked east, then south, to the top of the west-descending ramp. We followed the ramp down, to the base of the Amphitheater. Down-climbing above deadly drop-offs begged caution. We did a short rap from a sling on a flake.
We topped out on a plateau, east of the summit of the Bitty Buttress. We walked east, then south, to the top of the west-descending ramp. We followed the ramp down, to the base of the Amphitheater. Down-climbing above deadly drop-offs begged caution. We did a short rap from a sling on a flake.
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