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Routes in Bitty Buttress

A's Jax T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bitty Buttress T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Buzz, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Creeping Obscurity T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Electricity T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Holy Ascension T,TR 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c C1-2
Jagged Ascension aka The Hand is Quicker than the Eye T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jaguary T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Jam Left T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jitters, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lorax, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Milk the Quartz for Pints T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Moby Dike S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Peach Monkey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Peapod T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Return To Sender S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Reveille T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Right Crack or Last Crack (aka Mirage?) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rise and Shine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
South T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spins, The T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Treetop Landing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Voices Carry T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Welcome Home S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Trad, Sport, 60 ft
FA: Mark Tarrant, Richard Wright, Peter Hunt. 01/05
Page Views: 120 total, 1/month
Shared By: Mark Tarrant on Jan 28, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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2017 Seasonal Closures Lifted! Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

The Spins is on the center and right side of the flat wall just right of The Buzz. Start in the obvious right-slanting crack (.9+, great gear), then follow 5 bolts to the right arete. A little momentum will help with the first hard move at bolt 2 (.12a/b). Pass a difficult section before the crux at the fourth bolt. A final tricky move will put you near the anchor. Expect several hard sequences on good rock with few if any rests up to the last bolt. The wall is pretty steep and, like all the routes in this alcove, heats up nicely in the morning sun during the fall and winter.

The quality of the route is somewhat diminished by its close proximity to a nasty chimney on the right. Watch out for a big, detached pillar resting precariously in the chimney near the third bolt. It should be avoided at all costs.

Protection

Wires and medium cams. 5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. 60'.

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