Type: Sport
FA: Mark Tarrant, 1998?
Page Views: 3,615 total · 17/month
Shared By: richard magill on Nov 16, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details

Description

This is a little-known but absolutely killer line on Bitty Buttress. Hike up to Bitty Buttress and continue past the fallen tree for a couple hundred yards until the trail curves around to meet the southeast corner of the buttress. You will be in an awesome alcove that gets lots of morning sun, and is nice and wind-protected. It is bordered on two sides by overhanging rock.

There are three lines in this alcove. On the giant overhanging wave to the right is the The Lorax (13b). It is hard to understand why there aren't more routes here - there is plenty of room for more - multipitch as well. Moving left to the planar wall, there is an unfinished (14?) project. On the farthest left is the Buzz.

At first glance, the Buzz appears vertical, but when you get on it you will find the route overhangs by about 10 degrees. The climbing starts off reasonably easy, and then gets consistently harder as you go up an overhanging seam (12a) to the crux. You hit the crux about 35 feet up, where you get a clip before launching into a bizarre sequence. From here it is about 8-10 feet of thin, tenuous, and inobvious 12d crux maneuvering to make it to a jug and another clip. You can chill out a little on a rounded arete before continuing, but there is a bit more 11d/12a climbing guarding the anchors. Great line!

Protection

8 bolts.

Photos