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Routes in Bitty Buttress

A's Jax T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bitty Buttress T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Buzz, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Creeping Obscurity T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Electricity T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Holy Ascension T,TR 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c C1-2
Jagged Ascension aka The Hand is Quicker than the Eye T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jaguary T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Jam Left T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jitters, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lorax, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Milk the Quartz for Pints T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Moby Dike S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Peach Monkey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Peapod T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Return To Sender S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Reveille T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Right Crack or Last Crack (aka Mirage?) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rise and Shine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
South T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spins, The T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Treetop Landing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Voices Carry T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Welcome Home S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, TR, Aid, 60 ft
FA: Tim Hudgel 1985. FFA: John Arron 1987 (TR)
Page Views: 1,001 total · 9/month
Shared By: Dmitriy Zinchenko on May 19, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Holy Ascension would likely deserve the original A4 rating if climbed with all pins, beaks, and heads but with the advent of modern technology the grade is significantly tamer.

Look for a thin crack a few feet to the right of Peapod and to the left of Jaguary. This route opens with some thin and flaring C2 moves and meets up with the upper bolt of Jagged Ascension (~5.12). From there, plug in small cams and stoppers on C1 as the angles decreases and cracks get wider. The last 20-40 feet is best free climbed and doesn't get harder than 5.7 with good protection.

If free climbing, you'll find everything above the aforementioned bolt a cake walk compared to the poorly protected crux below which is apparently 5.13a.

Downclimb the class 4 ramp on climber's left or set up a rap on two bolts just above Razor Hein Stick (also, to your left). Alternatively, scramble up class 4 ramps and finish with the last pitches of A's Jax (8), Zero Tolerance (11b), and Moon Doggie (11b).

Given that the crux lies in your first three placements, you may consider a bouldering pad and spotter since you're guaranteed a deck fall if any piece these pieces blow.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Micro stoppers and RPs mandatory for the start with offsets helpful. Maybe bring the ballnuts if you got 'em. One set small cams and nuts for the C1 section and Camalots #1, 2, and 3 for the free climbing finish (doubles, especially of #2s can be useful but not necessary).

For the TR anchor, bring long slings and/or some small to medium pieces of pro.

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