Type: Trad, 10 pitches, Grade II
FA: Pat Ament and Larry Dalke, c. 1960
Page Views: 122,600 total · 516/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route climbs the entire 1000+ feet of the First Flatiron, and is pure joy the whole way up. The pitches are based upon using a 50m rope. It's 7 for a 60m rope.

P1: Start at the base of the Flatiron, just across and left of the bridge. Follow a water gully up, passing two eye bolts on the left side, to belay on a ledge by the tree if you have a 60meter rope. Otherwise, you'll have to belay at a small shelf about 1/2 way there.

P2: Continue straight up, belaying at another nice ledge a rope length up.

P3: Scramble up easier terrain to a belay. (Yes it's vague. Just go a rope length, and find a good ledge).

P4: Scamble again straight up and a little left. Belay on a ledge that could hold 20 people, on top of the headwall.

P5: Head left and up, towards a slot at the left end of the roof.

P6: Follow up the slot and start on the ridge traverse.

P7-10: It's 2-4 pitches from here to the actual summit block.

Protection

Standard rack recommended, but it can be done with some stoppers, hexes, a couple of tri-cams. Bring extra shoulder slings.

Photos