Avg: 2.9 from 41 votes
Routes in First Flatiron
|Atalanta T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Baker's Way T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Butterfly T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R|
|Direct Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R|
|Dumais Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|East Face Gully T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|East Face North Side/1st Flatiron T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R|
|Fandango T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Fandango Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|First in Flight T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R|
|Hubris T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R|
|Kamikaze Overhangs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Massugu T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13|
|North Arete T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Red Slab Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Southwest Face T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c|
|Way of the Ancients T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R|
|Yellow Brick Road T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Zig Zag T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Type:||Trad, 6 pitches, Grade II|
|Page Views:||7,444 total, 36/month|
|Shared By:||Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionStart the same as for Fandango, about 200 hundred feet up the left edge of the rock.
P1. Travel right, then up the massive flake and around the roof. A 60m rope can not quite make the tree above and left after turning the roof - it's about 10 yards short. Plan accordingly.
P2. The variation goes up and right slightly, up an easy face to a huge tree. Step over and onto a ledge behind the tree and a couple of nice large boulders.
P3. Follow the clean face up and left with the left-facing dihedral. Where the dihedral turns left and grows larger, move out right and join back up with Fandango.
P4. Head straight up, or follow the dihedral up and right to the summit traverse.
P5-6. From here, it takes usually two pitches to reach the summit block. Take care, for the ridge traverse is exposed at times.
Rappel 100 feet off of two eye bolts, or down climb via the south. Note: a 50m rope may be used for the rappel, but it's definitely not recommended. The rope didn't touch the ground until we were nearly at the end of the rope.