5.4 YDS 4a French 12 Ewbanks IV UIAA 10 ZA VD 3c British
Avg: 3.2 from 248 votes
|Type:||Trad, 5 pitches|
|Page Views:||25,941 total · 96/month|
|Shared By:||Matt White on Dec 31, 2000|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
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This is a great route for beginners. Beware of serious rope drag on pitches 3, 4, and 5.
This scenic, exposed route gets three stars as a free solo.
Approach the North Arete by climbing East Face North Side (see Warren Teissier's description of that route), or by hiking around the back of the First Flatiron to the notch just uphill from the end of the East Face North Side route.
P1 (45m): rope up in the notch. Climb up a steep 20 feet, then pull around onto the east face. Climb up the face to a flat area at the base of a long, low overhang.
P2 (50m): climb straight up to the lip of the overhang, then move left until you can pull up onto the face above the overhang. Run it out on beautiful, highly featured rock to one of several belay spots on the crest (5.4).
P3 (40m): climb along the arete, down into a notch, then up a hard-to-protect 50 degree slab. Belay on top of the slab.
P4 (50m): climb down into another notch and behold the "quartz crystal pitch". Climb a groove (small wired stoppers or tiny cams), then move right on face holds to the top of the tower. As you yard on the flat-topped quartz crystal, think of all the famous Boulder climbers who have yarded on same. Set a belay as far up on the ridge as your rope will reach (5.4).
P5 (40-50m): climb up arete to walking terrain. Navigate loose rock and boulders, scramble down into a final notch, then up the right side of the summit tower. Belay from gigantic eyebolts on the summit.
Descent: with a single 50m rope, rap from eyebolts to a big ledge 20 feet from summit. Rap or scramble south down ledge to another large eyebolt. Rappel down the south face.
With a 60m or two 50m ropes, make one mostly free-hanging rappel from summit eyebolts to the ground.