Yellow Brick Road
Avg: 3 from 15 votes
Routes in First Flatiron
|Atalanta T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Baker's Way T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Butterfly T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R|
|Direct Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R|
|Dumais Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|East Face Gully T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|East Face North Side/1st Flatiron T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R|
|Fandango T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Fandango Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|First in Flight T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R|
|Hubris T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R|
|Kamikaze Overhangs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Massugu T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13|
|North Arete T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Red Slab Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Southwest Face T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c|
|Way of the Ancients T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R|
|Yellow Brick Road T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Zig Zag T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Type:||Trad, 1000 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Rossiter & Baldwin, 1977 (solo)|
|Page Views:||3,697 total, 29/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Jun 2, 2007|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is a great route on great rock- resembles the route Butterfly in many ways. It LACKS PROTECTION for long stretches.
Pitch 1 (5.6, S): Start up in a chimney-sized groove and after a short distance, step left up and onto the slab, heading left to intercept a line of odd brick-like blocks and puzzle-pieces. These can be climbed for ~70 meters to top out left onto a ramp and a belay.
Pitch 2 (5.7, VS): From that belay, move up a good distance to some nice boulders below a double roof. This will give you more rope for the 71-meter pitch you are about ready to do. The first above is wider and larger, the second is smaller and arch-shaped. Watching for any loose rock (and mind you, with lack of gear) go over the right side of roof #1, then up the center of roof #2. Continue up and left though a very seriously runout water-groove. You can bail-out to the right, but we found that you can continue up this perfect rock for 70 meters to join "Baker's Way" just below a ledge just below where it intercepts the Direct East Face.
Pitch 3 (5.4): Go a short way up "Baker's Way" and join "Direct East Face" for one long pitch to the summit Ridge of the "North Arete."
Pitch 4 & 5 (5.0): Join the North Arete to the summit in 2 very pitches.
LocationA few hundred feet up and left of the Direct East Face, and above a massive boulder that has to be circumnavigated to get to the base. Start up into a groove just right of a junky corner.
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