Yellow Brick Road
Avg: 3 from 15 votes
|Type:||Trad, 1000 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Rossiter & Baldwin, 1977 (solo)|
|Page Views:||3,726 total · 29/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Jun 2, 2007|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is a great route on great rock- resembles the route Butterfly in many ways. It LACKS PROTECTION for long stretches.
Pitch 1 (5.6, S): Start up in a chimney-sized groove and after a short distance, step left up and onto the slab, heading left to intercept a line of odd brick-like blocks and puzzle-pieces. These can be climbed for ~70 meters to top out left onto a ramp and a belay.
Pitch 2 (5.7, VS): From that belay, move up a good distance to some nice boulders below a double roof. This will give you more rope for the 71-meter pitch you are about ready to do. The first above is wider and larger, the second is smaller and arch-shaped. Watching for any loose rock (and mind you, with lack of gear) go over the right side of roof #1, then up the center of roof #2. Continue up and left though a very seriously runout water-groove. You can bail-out to the right, but we found that you can continue up this perfect rock for 70 meters to join "Baker's Way" just below a ledge just below where it intercepts the Direct East Face.
Pitch 3 (5.4): Go a short way up "Baker's Way" and join "Direct East Face" for one long pitch to the summit Ridge of the "North Arete."
Pitch 4 & 5 (5.0): Join the North Arete to the summit in 2 very pitches.
LocationA few hundred feet up and left of the Direct East Face, and above a massive boulder that has to be circumnavigated to get to the base. Start up into a groove just right of a junky corner.
- No Photos -