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Routes in First Flatiron

Atalanta T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Baker's Way T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Butterfly T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Direct Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Dumais Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
East Face Gully T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
East Face North Side/1st Flatiron T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Fandango T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fandango Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
First in Flight T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Hubris T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Kamikaze Overhangs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Massugu T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
North Arete T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Red Slab Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Southwest Face T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Way of the Ancients T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Yellow Brick Road T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Zig Zag T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: unknown probably mid-'50s to mid-'60s
Page Views: 1,889 total, 10/month
Shared By: George Bell on Nov 16, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is one of the shortest routes on the First (3 pitches). It seems to lack belay ledges, and is water polished and quite runout in spots. It ascends the SE facing gully between the main summit and the first sub-summit, and is exposed to rockfall from people traveling along the regular route between the summits.

This route is best done as an "extra credit" bonus to another route on the First, or a route on the Second. It begins about 100' below (east of) the saddle between the First and Second Flatirons. Identify the gully/corner which meets the saddle east of the main summit. This gully is well defined up high, but the lower portion of this route is a nondescript slab. About 250' up, and 50' right of this gully is a large pine tree (on the route Atalanta).

P1. Romp up the slab (water polished rock), following the better defined dihedral up higher. Belay somewhere below an overhang which is 50' left of the big pine tree; it is hard to find an anchor and ledge together in here.

P2: Move left under the overhang (there are actually two overhangs one above the other, you can move under either one). Look for a bolt after the traverse left (there are actually 2 bolts here but one is broken off). From the bolt, head straight up the smooth gully (5.6 s), or if freaked out by this head straight left from the bolt, around a bulge, and then back right and up (5.4). It is hard to find much for a belay anchor at the end of this pitch, so you may want to stop short if you find any crack to belay from (we were 30' short of the saddle in two 60m pitches).

P3. The easy third pitch continues up to the saddle and reaches the summit (watch for loose rock).

Protection

Standard Flatiron rack.

Photos

My partner couldn't retrieve a brand new Black Diamond #1 on the pitch just after the bolted anchor on Hubris. Lots of beer and good Karma if you can return this to me!

Thanks,
Ben (720) 837-9501 Jul 14, 2017
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.6 R
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.6 R
Took the first pitch all the way to 210' (with a little simul) - there was a decent alcove for belay (but could have anchored at 200'). Second pitch was about 190' to the ridge. Fun climb, mostly a cruise but with the occasional pay attention moment. First pitch protected fairly well; second pitch was pretty run out. Sep 5, 2013
I certainly did not make the FA of Hubris. When I soloed the route in 1987, there was an old bolt near the crux. However, I did come up with the name Hubris. In general, we can't really know the FA for the easier routes on the major Flatirons, which is why I didn't list FA history in Flatiron Classics, which is dedicated to the easier routes. BTW, a new edition of Flatiron Classics will be available in June, 2008. Enjoy! Jan 28, 2008
On 10/18/07, Bruce Hildenbrand and Dale Haas replaced the two belay bolts on this route with 3/8"x3.5" stainless steel Rawl bolts and Fixe ring hangers. Ron Olsen donated the hangers (thanks Ron!) and the ASCA (www.safeclimbing.org) donated the bolts. BTW, it was so difficult to remove the original bolts (3/8" Star Dryvins) that in the process, while clenching my teeth in the effort, I (Bruce) broke a crown on one of my teeth!

With the new bolts, and nice belay ledge, this route should probably be done as follows with a 60m rope. P1 - 180' to a reasonable stance in a trough which takes bomber #2 and #3 Camalots. P2 - 40' up and left to the belay bolts. P3 - 180' to the notch. P4 - scramble 50' to the eye bolts on top.

As a bit of history, I don't believe that Gerry Roach should be credited with the first ascent of this line in 1987. The bolts and hangers we replaced were of late 1950s to late 1960s origin, and the soft iron, vertical piton on the third pitch is also mid-50s to mid-60s origin. Clearly, at least one party had climbed this line at least 20 years before Roach. I would list the first ascent as unknown probably mid-50s to mid-60s.

Bruce Oct 18, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.6 R
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.6 R
This route can be made better with a 70M rope- and done in 2 pitches with better belays, or do a little simul-climbing.The first pitch can be made to go to the end of the rope, or nearly so, near the 2 bolts (a former belay?) mentioned previously. Then the second pitch is 60M to the saddle or 70M to the summit.I found an old pin on the second pitch as well, perhaps 50 or 60' above the anchient bolts (scarey rivets with cool old hangers- don't trust the remaining one for sure!). If the stemming and slabbing on the ultra-clean face just left of the huge dihedral is too spicey, consider bumping left after the pin to a good crack some 10' left of the dihedral- it protects well, but is kinda, well, boring (low 4th class with jugs). If you want to pro it up, take 2 sets of cams 1.5"-3.5" This crack runs all the way to the saddle up top, and has belay opportunities if one is desired. Mar 10, 2003