Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: unknown probably mid-'50s to mid-'60s
Page Views: 2,395 total · 11/month
Shared By: George Bell on Nov 16, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is one of the shortest routes on the First (3 pitches). It seems to lack belay ledges, and is water polished and quite runout in spots. It ascends the SE facing gully between the main summit and the first sub-summit, and is exposed to rockfall from people traveling along the regular route between the summits.

This route is best done as an "extra credit" bonus to another route on the First, or a route on the Second. It begins about 100' below (east of) the saddle between the First and Second Flatirons. Identify the gully/corner which meets the saddle east of the main summit. This gully is well defined up high, but the lower portion of this route is a nondescript slab. About 250' up, and 50' right of this gully is a large pine tree (on the route Atalanta).

P1. Romp up the slab (water polished rock), following the better defined dihedral up higher. Belay somewhere below an overhang which is 50' left of the big pine tree; it is hard to find an anchor and ledge together in here.

P2: Move left under the overhang (there are actually two overhangs one above the other, you can move under either one). Look for a bolt after the traverse left (there are actually 2 bolts here but one is broken off). From the bolt, head straight up the smooth gully (5.6 s), or if freaked out by this head straight left from the bolt, around a bulge, and then back right and up (5.4). It is hard to find much for a belay anchor at the end of this pitch, so you may want to stop short if you find any crack to belay from (we were 30' short of the saddle in two 60m pitches).

P3. The easy third pitch continues up to the saddle and reaches the summit (watch for loose rock).

Protection

Standard Flatiron rack.

Photos