Avg: 2 from 16 votes
Routes in First Flatiron
|Atalanta T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Baker's Way T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Butterfly T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R|
|Direct Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R|
|Dumais Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|East Face Gully T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|East Face North Side/1st Flatiron T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R|
|Fandango T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Fandango Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|First in Flight T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R|
|Hubris T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R|
|Kamikaze Overhangs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Massugu T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13|
|North Arete T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Red Slab Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Southwest Face T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c|
|Way of the Ancients T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R|
|Yellow Brick Road T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Zig Zag T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches|
|FA:||unknown probably mid-'50s to mid-'60s|
|Page Views:||1,889 total, 10/month|
|Shared By:||George Bell on Nov 16, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is one of the shortest routes on the First (3 pitches). It seems to lack belay ledges, and is water polished and quite runout in spots. It ascends the SE facing gully between the main summit and the first sub-summit, and is exposed to rockfall from people traveling along the regular route between the summits.
This route is best done as an "extra credit" bonus to another route on the First, or a route on the Second. It begins about 100' below (east of) the saddle between the First and Second Flatirons. Identify the gully/corner which meets the saddle east of the main summit. This gully is well defined up high, but the lower portion of this route is a nondescript slab. About 250' up, and 50' right of this gully is a large pine tree (on the route Atalanta).
P1. Romp up the slab (water polished rock), following the better defined dihedral up higher. Belay somewhere below an overhang which is 50' left of the big pine tree; it is hard to find an anchor and ledge together in here.
P2: Move left under the overhang (there are actually two overhangs one above the other, you can move under either one). Look for a bolt after the traverse left (there are actually 2 bolts here but one is broken off). From the bolt, head straight up the smooth gully (5.6 s), or if freaked out by this head straight left from the bolt, around a bulge, and then back right and up (5.4). It is hard to find much for a belay anchor at the end of this pitch, so you may want to stop short if you find any crack to belay from (we were 30' short of the saddle in two 60m pitches).
P3. The easy third pitch continues up to the saddle and reaches the summit (watch for loose rock).