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Routes in First Flatiron

Atalanta T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Baker's Way T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Butterfly T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Direct Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Dumais Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
East Face Gully T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
East Face North Side/1st Flatiron T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Fandango T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fandango Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
First in Flight T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Hubris T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Kamikaze Overhangs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Massugu T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
North Arete T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Red Slab Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Southwest Face T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Way of the Ancients T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Yellow Brick Road T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Zig Zag T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,395 total · 27/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on May 25, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a fun route and a nice alternative to Fandango when the First is crowded. It starts a couple of switchbacks up the 1st Flatiron descent trail from the start of Fandango at the base of a pleasant alcove. You can recognize the start of the route by a long, purple-ish slab capped by a black, licheny roof band. A tree over the roof band usually sports rappel slings.

Climb the slab to the roof, which you can either turn directly (5.7 s) or by stepping right. Belay at the tree.

Two to three easier pitches lead to the base of another roof band, which comprises the crux. Either breach this roof on the right at a fixed pin (5.8) or via a groove and hand crack on the left (more exposed, 5.8+). The slab above this roof is studded with small trees and somewhat dirty. The best rock seems to be on the left.

Realm up to the ridge, which you then follow to the summit. This route is about 5-6 pitches long.

Protection

Your standard Flatirons rack, with an emphasis on mid-range cams and long slings for the belays.
Daniel H. Bryant
Colorado Springs, CO
Daniel H. Bryant   Colorado Springs, CO
Led the first pitch to the bigger tree above the tree with old slings on it (ran out a 70m), then went up and left to the next big tree (another 70m pitch) which I believe is where Atalanta heads up. Be careful as this pitch had a lot of weak/decomposing flakes (easy climbing, sketchy rock). Took Atalanta to the summit. Dec 7, 2014
Matt Amory
Boulder CO
Matt Amory   Boulder CO
After nixing the Direct (too long for my friend Patrik to be sure of making his flight) we were looking for Baker's, but I'm pretty sure we ended up on this. I set an exciting anchor using an actual knotted sling in a finger pocket that spit out all other pro, and was pumped to lead through the chimney on the left hand side of the second roof. Awesome morning! Next time I'd start higher on the easy slab at the base so that I didn't have to belay from the first skinny tree at the bottom of the cool water streak (Bonsai Garden?). Anchoring P1 from the big honking tree at 62 Meters would have gotten me right up under the roof for the top of P2. Oct 27, 2006
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
I believe this route starts in the same place as Zig Zag but heads straight up over the first roof where Zig Zag Zigs Zright! Comprendo? Nov 26, 2001