Avg: 2.7 from 3 votes
|Page Views:||2,642 total · 12/month|
|Shared By:||Dougald MacDonald on Apr 21, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
The line starts up overhanging rock, trending left, near the far right side of the north face. You're aiming for two, parallel, right-leaning corners a few feet apart and about halfway up the face. A #3 Camalot and an ancient fixed pin protect the initial moves. From a decent rest, place gear in the corners above and then launch up about 12 or 15 feet of strenuous finger crack, using both corners. A fairly committing move leads to a good rest at a break. From here, I led up and left on unprotected 5.8 face climbing and eventually reached the easy ground below the summit. It might also be possible to move right after the crux -- maybe there's pro out there too. The way I went was reasonably secure but serious.
Many people who could climb this route probably don't, because they've just soloed the First and don't have a rope or gear, but if you end up there with a rope, you should try it. It's very easy to toprope the line from the summit anchors with a 60-meter rope.