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First in Flight
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British R
Avg: 2.5 from 4
votes
Routes in First Flatiron
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Atalanta T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Baker's Way T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Blow It Out Your A** (AKA not Kamakaze Overhang) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Butterfly T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Direct Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Dumais Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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East Face Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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East Face North Side T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R |
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Fandango T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Fandango Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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First in Flight T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Hubris T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Kamikaze Overhangs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Massugu T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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North Arete T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Red Slab Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Southwest Face T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Way of the Ancients T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Yellow Brick Road T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Zig Zag T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Trad |
| GPS: | 39.9908, -105.2928 |
| FA: | Dougald MacDonald |
| Page Views: | 3,895 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Dougald MacDonald on Apr 21, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
This is the line below the direct rappel from the summit of the First (to the north). I'm sure people have TR'd it many times, but I asked the usual suspects and couldn't locate anyone who had led it before. Anyway, it's an excellent pitch, so I thought I'd describe it. If there's earlier history to this one, I'd love to hear it.
The line starts up overhanging rock, trending left, near the far right side of the north face. You're aiming for two, parallel, right-leaning corners a few feet apart and about halfway up the face. A #3 Camalot and an ancient fixed pin protect the initial moves. From a decent rest, place gear in the corners above and then launch up about 12 or 15 feet of strenuous finger crack, using both corners. A fairly committing move leads to a good rest at a break. From here, I led up and left on unprotected 5.8 face climbing and eventually reached the easy ground below the summit. It might also be possible to move right after the crux -- maybe there's pro out there too. The way I went was reasonably secure but serious.
Many people who could climb this route probably don't, because they've just soloed the First and don't have a rope or gear, but if you end up there with a rope, you should try it. It's very easy to toprope the line from the summit anchors with a 60-meter rope.
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