Avg: 2.4 from 56 votes
Routes in First Flatiron
|Atalanta T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Baker's Way T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Butterfly T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R|
|Direct Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R|
|Dumais Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|East Face Gully T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|East Face North Side/1st Flatiron T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R|
|Fandango T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Fandango Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|First in Flight T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R|
|Hubris T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R|
|Kamikaze Overhangs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Massugu T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13|
|North Arete T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Red Slab Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Southwest Face T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c|
|Way of the Ancients T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R|
|Yellow Brick Road T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Zig Zag T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Type:||Trad, 5 pitches|
|Page Views:||7,523 total, 38/month|
|Shared By:||George Bell on Aug 22, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is a fun route on the First that is open year round. Approach via the First Flatiron Trail, follow this trail past the start of the East Face Direct route. The trail then heads south, away from the First Flatiron, but keep going, it will come back. When it does return under the First, at one point the trail passes within 10' of the base of the rock, and above is a huge, left-facing corner which curves into a series of roofs about 120' up. The route begins up a slab about 30' left of this big dihedral (to the right of the dihedral is the start of Baker's Way). This big dihedral goes all the way to the summit ridge and is visible in the photo left of the "2a".
Charge up the easy slab. Above in the overhang you should see a mass of slings hanging from a block. This is the first belay (about 120' out). You can belay here, or continue (recommended if you have a 60m rope). Traverse almost straight right (east) on big footholds, then grab some big face holds and crank right over the final overhang. Then head up a slab towards the big left facing corner and belay anywhere you can find a good anchor (the tree up to your left with slings is not on route).
From here, the route follows the big, left-facing dihedral (or the face to its left), all the way to the summit ridge. At the end of the 2nd pitch (60m ropes) is a second roof which I thought was the crux. On the third pitch, you head up an easy slab with a huge flake to your right that can be used for stemming or chimneying.
The third pitch (with 60m ropes) ends atop the false summit (may be 4 pitches depending on where you belay and how long your rope is). From here, you can unrope and scramble to the top or do one more pitch. From the summit eye bolts, rap 100' west to the ground. If you don't have a 60m rope, rap south to a ramp where you will find another eye bolt for a second rap to the ground (you can also downclimb this route (SW Face), easy but very exposed).