Type: Trad, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 42,918 total · 181/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000 with improvements by Joel Larner
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

Start about 1/4 of the way up the east face - to the left of the huge left-facing dihedral that arcs up the face. To get there, continue up the trail past the bridge at the base of the First Flatiron.  The trail will move away from the rock, pass a few isolated rocks, and then after several hundreds yards, return to the main flatiron right at a point where a split-rail fence ends.  Instead of turning left on the switchbacking trail, turn right down the obvious gully along the Flatiron face. The start of the climb is about 50 feet down the gully, it can't be missed - it's the big face that leads up to the huge dihedral.

P1: travel right, then up the massive flake and around the roof. A 60m rope can not quite make the tree above and left after turning the roof - it's about 10 yards short. Plan accordingly.

P2-5: follow the big dihedral system up and right. Head up a huge flake you can actually climb under. From here, it takes usually two pitches to reach the summit block. Take care, for the ridge traverse is exposed at times.

Rappel 100 feet off of two eye bolts, or down climb via the south. Note: A 50m rope may be used for the rappel, but definitely not recommended. The rope didn't touch the ground until the rappeller was nearly at the end of the rope when we did it with 50m.

Protection

Standard rack with extra shoulder slings.

Photos