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Routes in First Flatiron

Atalanta T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Baker's Way T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Butterfly T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Direct Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Dumais Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
East Face Gully T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
East Face North Side/1st Flatiron T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Fandango T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fandango Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
First in Flight T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Hubris T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Kamikaze Overhangs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Massugu T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
North Arete T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Red Slab Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Southwest Face T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Way of the Ancients T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Yellow Brick Road T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Zig Zag T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 1000 ft, 6 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,186 total, 18/month
Shared By: percious on Feb 12, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

Start left of the Direct Route and follow the crack to the shared first Belay on the direct route. Continue up the Direct Route, then head left. There is a large eye bolt at the end of the second pitch. Follow the steeper slot (5.8R) through the overhangs up to a belay off a sturdy pass through. There is no gear for the crux, which is about 40 feet off the belay eyelet. Veer left or right tackling the roof above or heading off left. Finish the last 2-3 pitches as Direct Route to the summit.

Options: With a seventy meter rope, it is possible to combine the first 3 pitches into two. There is a belay about halfway through the second pitch at a left-leaning flake. Aliens would be prudent for the pin scars.

Location

Start at the belay station for Standard. Nice alternative day out.

Protection

Sparce at times. Metolius blue through big purple will get you there. Pink and red tricams are nice also. If you could trust them, Aliens would be nice in that range.

Photos

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