Avg: 2.8 from 22 votes
|FA:||Gerry Roach and Jeff Wheeler, 1956|
|Page Views:||3,275 total · 13/month|
|Shared By:||George Bell on May 31, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
This climb starts some distance left of and above the Direct Route. The easiest way to identify the area of the first 2 pitches is to look for a huge, diamond-shaped slab of pale yellow rock. Follow the approach for Fandango, scrambling around the south side of a big boulder near this section of the face (the Witch's Cabin). This climb begins 40' west of the top of the Witch's Cabin.
Climb a strange, tricky looking gully, which goes through the right side of a roof. Continue up the gully, but eventually break left up the huge diamond shaped slab. Belay anywhere you can find a good anchor.
P2: Continue straight up the slab with little pro (5.4) aiming for a section of roofs above you. The roofs are the crux and there are several ways to pass them. I headed toward the far right side of one, cranked over it (good pro), and then traversed left just over the lip and below another overhang to a good belay.
P3: Head straight up, aiming for a tree about 120' above you. After this pitch the climbing becomes easier and in one more pitch joins the Direct (Regular) Route at the "route junction knob".
[This route is labeled "1a" in the 0. Far Right, 2. 1. Direct E Face, 6R. 1a. Butterfly, 6R. 2. Fandango, 5. 2a. Variation, 6. 3. Baker's Way, 3. 4. Way of the Ancients, 7R. 5. Zig Zag, 7. 6. ?Kamikaze, 9? 9. Hubris, 6. Unmarked Atlanta, 3. ]