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Routes in First Flatiron

Atalanta T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Baker's Way T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Butterfly T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Direct Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Dumais Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
East Face Gully T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
East Face North Side/1st Flatiron T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Fandango T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fandango Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
First in Flight T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Hubris T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Kamikaze Overhangs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Massugu T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
North Arete T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Red Slab Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Southwest Face T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Way of the Ancients T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Yellow Brick Road T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Zig Zag T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,616 total · 27/month
Shared By: Warren Teissier on Jun 7, 2001 with updates from Eric Waag
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a short (by First Flatiron standards) 3-4 pitch route on the Southern side of the East face of the First.

The quality of the rock is good although pro is not that easy to find.

The route starts some 200 feet above (South) the start of Baker's Way. The start can be reached by staying on the trail between the First and the Second and looking for the next "easy" way to get on the face after Baker's Way.

Look for and easy, broken groove that heads Northeast for some 30 feet.

Climb the groove to a small ledge and head up a small dihedral with a small, East-facing ramp leading to a short steep face (crux). Roach mentions the existence of an old piton after the crux, but we either missed it or it was gone when we did the route.

After the crux, you can either continue up the dihedral to a tree and then the North Arete, or you can move left onto the East face of the false summit. The latter option provides a cool but relatively unprotected face climb.

From the North Arete, take a left and reach the summit in one pitch or less.

Descent - rap down or downclimb the Southwest face.

Protection

Standard Flatiron, small pieces.

Photos

Mark Oveson
Louisville, Colorado
 
Mark Oveson   Louisville, Colorado
 
This is the best of the short routes high on the East Face of the First Flatiron. The crux is short and secure. A climb not to be missed. Sep 6, 2006
George Bell
Boulder, CO
 
George Bell   Boulder, CO
 
The piton is still there, look carefully about 15 feet ABOVE the crux. It looks like someone bent it over with a hammer, you couldn't clip a biner into it. You could sling it with a runner, though. Oct 6, 2006
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
I did an interesting variation above the first tree. Head left to a ramp system that turns into a hanging dihedral. The ramp slowing disppears until the crux bulge (5.6). It is very exposed with good rock (poor pro). Dec 1, 2013
Daniel H. Bryant
Colorado Springs, CO
Daniel H. Bryant   Colorado Springs, CO
Entered onto this route at the large tree mid-way, we took Kamikaze straight up to it. We connected the top of the first 70m pitch of Kamikaze to the big tree via a 70m pitch. If you decide to try this, be careful cause there are weak/decomposing flakes along this pitch (easy climbing but sketchy rock), 2/3 along this pitch is a bulge, I went left and it felt 5.6ish, the right looked a bit harder. Dec 7, 2014
Andres Fernandez
Boulder, Colorado
  5.4
Andres Fernandez   Boulder, Colorado
  5.4
Just to the right of Hubris, which I've never done.

1st pitch goes up 4th class gully and then takes a left toward the first set of trees. You'll use half a rope length. 5.3. You can also just go directly up to the first tree and that's more 5.2 I'd say.

2nd pitch follows the ramp/dihedral and could be 5.3. Not a lot of areas to place protection. That ends at the big tree. The crux is trying to place a small cam then surmount the bulge overhang, which is pretty iffy protection but the move is relatively straighforward.

(Below: My variation from standard Atalanta for pitches 3 and 4.)

3rd pitch is short, since there can be horrible rope drag if you go up and left to where you then downclimb (to the last part of Hubris) and then go to the last saddle before the top. I'd recommend going to just before down climbing where you can use slings to wrap around some bomber rock tubes (mini-arches).

Standard route: you can go right too for the penultimate saddle. Seemed easier than going left.

4th pitch takes you to the top, and I recommend stemming. You pass a tree and then get to easier terrain. Not great for placing protection either. This I'd classify as 5.4 for the smoothness and lack of protection choices.

You can finish the 4th pitch by doing the 5.7 2-3 move mantle to the top right after getting to the saddle instead of taking the ramp 10 feet to the west. Jul 27, 2015

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