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Routes in The Amphitheater

2nd Pinnacle, NW Corner T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
2nd Pinnacle, Upper East Face Right T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
D.A.'s Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Dialysis Bag T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Direct North Face T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Direct West Bench [formerly listed as variation] T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Direct to top of Second Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Diversion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
East Bench Dihedral T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Inset, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Inside S. Face (1st pinnacle) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Juniper Crack (1st pinacle) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Left Variation (1st pinnacle) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Macropsychotic T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a V-easy 3
McCrumm's Crack (1st Pinnacle) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
North Face of the West Bench (2nd Pinnacle) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Northeast Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Northeast Corner T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Now and Zen T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Outside East Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
P.S. I'm Blonde T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pizza Pie Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Red Gully, The T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Red Wall aka Raptors in Cellophane S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roof (2nd Pinnacle E. Face) TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
SE Face aka Southeast Arete (First Pinnacle) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Second Pinnacle East Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Second Pinnacle South Face T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Shortcut T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c V-easy 3
Siberian North Face T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slot [formerly listed at Direct West Bench] T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
South Face Direct (1st Pinnacle) TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
South Face Left (1st Pinnacle) T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
South Rib (2nd Pinnacle) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Standard Inside East Face T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
T-Zero West Face aka Finger Crack T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tyrolean Traverse TR Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c PG13
West Bench Dihedral T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
West Face (of T-Zero) T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
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Elevation: 6,150 ft
GPS: 39.996, -105.293 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 35,272 total · 162/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details
Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

The Gregory Canyon Amphitheatre is a classic climbing area. Thousands of climbers have had their first ascents on the gentle rocks that rest here. On sunny weekends, the inside of the amphitheatre is usually beseiged by climbing programs and beginners. The exterior of the amphitheatre has a number of attractive routes of varying difficulty.

Getting There

Park either at Chautauqua parking (on the south side of Baseline at about 9th street), or at the Gregory Canyon parking lot. NOTE: If your car tags aren't from Boulder County, definitely pay the fee ($3/d or $25/y) if you park at the latter. From Chautauqua, walk the Baseline trail until you join up with the Amphitheater trail. About 300 yards up, (to access the the N face of First Pinnacle or the E face of the East Bench) take the climbing Amphitheater Express trail, which loops around the north side of the Amphitheater. The regular route (Amphitheater Trail) continues up, and 150 yards later the Amphitheater (T-Zero, W face of E Bench, S face of First Pinnacle, E & S & W face of Second Pinnacle, E face of West Bench) appears on your right side.

39 Total Climbs

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Location: The Amphitheater Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Amphitheater

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c PG13
 4
Tyrolean Traverse
TR 2 pitches
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
 17
Second Pinnacle South Face
Trad 2 pitches
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 13
Northeast Chimney
Trad
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 25
SE Face aka Southeast Arete (Fir…
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a V-easy 3
 6
Macropsychotic
Trad, Boulder
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 42
Slot [formerly listed at Direct…
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 38
Direct West Bench [formerly list…
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 12
Inside S. Face (1st pinnacle)
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 6
Siberian North Face
Trad, Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 54
Red Wall aka Raptors in Cellophane
Sport, TR
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 7
P.S. I'm Blonde
Trad, Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Tyrolean Traverse
 4
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c PG13 TR 2 pitches
Second Pinnacle South Face
 17
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c Trad 2 pitches
Northeast Chimney
 13
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad
SE Face aka Southeast Arete…
 25
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
Macropsychotic
 6
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a V-easy 3 Trad, Boulder
Slot [formerly listed at Di…
 42
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Direct West Bench [formerly…
 38
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Inside S. Face (1st pinnacle)
 12
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad, TR
Siberian North Face
 6
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, Sport
Red Wall aka Raptors in Cel…
 54
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR
P.S. I'm Blonde
 7
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad, Sport
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
I set a toprope for the Inside South Face, and instead of traversing diagonally up and left, just headed straight up (to the right of the inside south face route). There is a nice left facing dihedral about halfway up (below the dihedral on the inside south face route) with very thin holds in the corner, and then I exited to the right to some reasonably thin face climbing.

I can't find info about it in Rossiter's (or old Ament's) guidebooks, or on this site. It felt 10-ish to me. There was a little bit of chalk in the dihedral, so it's definitely seen some ascents.

Anybody have any info on this route? Aug 1, 2004
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
If you are there at the right time of year, the plum trees inside the amphitheatre produce edible fruit. Jun 28, 2007
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
A while back (early to mid nineties I think) there was a bolt route added to the south arete of the east ramp as you enter the amp. If I remember it is titled "P.S. I'm blond" and given a .12a rating. Can anyone confirm, and has anyone climbed this one? This looks like a fun route as it traverses up and left along the diaginal south arete/face of the east wall. Anyway, I will probably climb this one before any feedback comes in. Thanks Young Doug. Aug 20, 2008
kevin murphy
Longtuckity, CO
kevin murphy   Longtuckity, CO
All true young Doug. Been many years, don't think I got it. Must go back soon. Aug 21, 2008
Jason Haas
G1 Climbing + Fitness
Jason Haas   G1 Climbing + Fitness
Doug, the route goes at 12a and you may want a large nut for the start, otherwise it's a run to the first bolt over moderate terrain. Great line. Aug 21, 2008
What is the best way to set up top ropes in this area? It sounds like the top of the Second Pinnacle can be reached fby scrambling up its West side, but what about the the First and Third Pinnacle? Jul 18, 2015
The 1st, 2nd and 3rd pinnacles are NOT closed for raptor nesting. I climbed there yesterday. Feb 8, 2018

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