Type: Trad, Sport, 180 ft, 2 pitches Fixed Hardware (16)
FA: Vaino Kodas and Mary Zuvela
Page Views: 13,191 total · 64/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on May 5, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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A spectacular route that climbs the beautiful arete just right of the Bihedral Route.

Pitch 1: Gain the arete and climb up past three bolts on good holds. Reach a thin crack (small gear) climb the crack angling to the left and climb up past four more bolts to a two-bolt anchor.

Pitch 2: Angle left up to small tree (with gear), clip a bolt and make cool moves on the exposed arete climbing the cool face/arete past several bolts to a two-bolt belay.

Rap the route with 2 ropes from pitch 2 or do two rappels with a single 60m rope. This route is going to be a classic.


Bolts and small-to-medium gear. Two-bolt anchors at the first and second belays.
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
This is an aesthetic and fun route with great position. Bring a 60-meter rope; the rappel from the top of the first pitch is almost 100 feet long. I used a red and yellow Alien and a #2 Camalot for pro on both pitches; next time I'll leave all my other pro behind. Bring two or three runners that you can extend for some of the gear placements. There are seven bolts on the first pitch and four bolts on the second pitch. Both pitches had delicate face move cruxes that felt about 9+ or 10a. I thought the climbing was a bit easier than on Gish, a new 10a route on Bell Buttress/Aquarium Wall. Aug 3, 2002
Ray Snead  
Superb. Luckily the approach is complex, which might keep the riffraff away. The route climbs nicely with Ron's suggested three cams (#2 Camalot, red and yellow Aliens), but bear in mind that finger sized wires will go in all over the place, and there are even some nice spikes to sling for you purists.

Go do this route! No, stay away! Aug 6, 2002
What a good route*** Oct 23, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
The route was pretty good. I don't know that it was an instant classic, but it was worthy for sure. It was mostly 5.6 to 5.7 climbing with short sections of harder climbing, all of which were well protected. Two moves were 5.9 or harder. Jenny thought it was easy for 5.9 (suggested 5.9-) and she's a 5.10 climber, so this should be in her range of good sensitivity.There is still a few gritty holds near the base that turned loose some crystals when I shifted my feet on them, but these will clean up with time.

I think it was best done by doing it as a single pitch (11 slings on bolts, +2 nuts with slings). It seems like you can rap off of it with a 50m by rapping to the first belay, then rapping to the top of the slabby face route left of the Bihedral (Rhodian Shores) then to the ground.

The first belay anchor is placed ideally on its own merit, but its presence was preceded by the route "Crack variation" of the bihedral, a route that is admittedly not very good and almost never climbed. Still, it makes me wonder if placing the belay slightly elsewhere would have been more preserving of the lines previously there. More something to think about than it is a complaint. May 19, 2003
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Good route. Note, you won't get from the P1 anchor to the ground with 50m rope. P1 is about 130 ft. P2 is short but slightly harder, 60 ft? A blue or green Alien might be useful between bolts 3 & 4 (tho' could be 2 & 3) on P2. New fangled hangers on many of the bolts.

Nice but agree with T. Bubb, not an instant classic.

Again, agree with T. Bubb, but my partner, Brian, thought it was 5.9. May 22, 2003
Scott Conner
Lyons, CO
Scott Conner   Lyons, CO
Nice route. Surprising that this line didn't go up when the area was first being developed. With a little more traffic (read: cleaning) this will surely be a sought after climb. Great position and views. Jun 3, 2003
Climbed this on 6/8/03 and really enjoyed it. Pulled of a bit of loose rock at start, but overall it was clean and well protected with great position. Had the whole rock to ourselves. I've climbed in Boulder Canyon for almost 20 years, and I have to say that this is definitely one of the best lines of this grade in the canyon. Kudos to the 1st ascentionists. Jun 11, 2003
Ernie Port
Boulder, Colorado
Ernie Port   Boulder, Colorado
Two ways to start this route, both pretty simple. Yard directly up from below the front face to a clip 20' up or so. Or start on the shallow inside corner, climbing up about 15' and steping over the arete to the clip. I did it from the front, my partner lead and started from the inside corner. First pitch felt (7+)ish to me with good exposure, maybe one (8) move half way up moving off the arete. Nice pitch of interesting climbing if you stay close to the arete. IMO climbing in the middle or right side looked much easier and degrades the quality. On P2 climb 20' of (6)ish to a roomy corner ledge, and the fun starts from here. Ascend off the arete onto the face using the inside of the arete, small crimpers, and a thin seam for three clips of excellent face climbing. IMHO this felt hard 9 to me. The crux on its neighbor, Rhodian Shores, felt harder. But I enjoyed it, and its three stars in my book. Jun 15, 2003
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Good route and good boting ethics (not bolting where there is gear placements). Wish I had something bigger than a #3 TCU for the first pitch. A #3 Camalot would have been nice between the last bolt getting up to the P1 anchors. A few loose holds still on P1. Best option for rappelling is to rap from the top of P2 to the anchors on the bolted face to the left of the Bihedral; makes for a clean pull and plenty of rope to get down.

Great position and solid movement above your gear.

Slabby arete moves on P2 are tricky, but all there and well protected. Jul 21, 2003
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
I also thought that Rhodian Shores was a bit tougher than Bihedral Arete. Very high quality though, and well worth the scramble up to the start. Aug 13, 2003
shad O'Neel  
Unlike the above commments, I found this route to be a little tricky. I'd agree 9+ or 10-, slab climbing isn't my forte, and maybe I was having an off day. Nicely exposed, interesting, and I'm happy someone bolted a route leaving the places with gear for gear. Comapred to other boulder canyon 5.9 sport routes, this one seemed to be rated more like an old trad route, i.e not a gimmie for the grade, like, for example, 'pup' on neighbooring Security Risk...... Jan 20, 2004
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Did this route yesterday under light snowfall, fun route! We used a few wires, Aliens and the #2 Camalot. There are a couple of loose blocks that are not obvious, and probably wouldn't come off even if you yarded on them, but who knows? Amazing that this cool route was not discovered earlier. Mar 29, 2004
Warren Teissier
Warren Teissier  
Climbed this early yesterday amid intermitent periods of sun and snow showers.

What a great climb this is indeed.

Lose rock alert:

There is a large flake 1x3 feet to the right and up from the last bolt of the first pitch that is ready to come off.

As you reach the last bolt and you head up the easier broken section on the right, the first large handhold you reach is the top of the loose flake.

I pulled on it yesterday and it pulled out while making that grainy "rock-detaching-itself-from-the-wall-sound". I pushed it back in but it is way lose, only a matter of time...

When it comes off it is likely to fall right where your belayer is likely to be standing! Top Candidate for a trundle if you ask me.

Be Safe, WT Mar 29, 2004
So, uh, maybe you should have removed the block. One of us has to do it, just make sure you yell out 'rock', and throw way out from wall. Don't know of a better time, unless you climb at 3am. Mar 29, 2004
Warren Teissier
Warren Teissier  
AC, we considered trundling the block but, besides it not being fully detached (at least we did not test it), we could not see from our position if people were coming up a side trail below or down the hill for that matter.

Not a liability I was interested in shouldering.

I figured a heads up on this site would prevent an accident and if some one else wants to trundle it let them decide to do so.

WT Mar 29, 2004
Did this route last week. While its good by BC standards, I'd hardly call it classic. And 10a is way overrated IMHO. The crux on the first pitch is a high step and crank from good holds on the corner. Crux moves on the second pitch are thin and a little balancy, but not that bad. Apr 21, 2004
Ken Heiser
Boulder, CO
Ken Heiser   Boulder, CO
This is a really fun route to lead in one pitch (about 170 ft.). I am really surprised this was not climbed earlier as it is such a classic line. A quality addition to this cliff. Jun 8, 2004
I didn't think it was harder than 5.9, but I wasn't on lead. My partner didn't think it was harder than 5.9 either.

Just a note: You should place some gear in the crack above the third bolt, even if the climbing to the next bolt is easy. If you don't place any gear, a fall by the second from the crux (at the third bolt) will result in a swing over the arete. This probably wouldn't be dangerous, but it would suck. You might have to lower down to get back on route. Jun 16, 2004
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
One of the loose blocks George is likely referring to is a two-foot spike/tooth of rock that's about two feet to the right of the last bolt on pitch 1; it flexes quite a lot. Jul 11, 2004
Craig Quincy
Louisville, CO
Craig Quincy   Louisville, CO
The loose block at the end of pitch one is still there as of 10/10/2004 and is moving quite easily. Trundling it would be a little dubious without some coordination given all the activity at the Riviera and the road below. Oct 12, 2004
This route is pretty good, thanks for the work.

I would not rate this as a potential classic.

The climbing is not sustained at the grade. There are loose blocks and sections of lower grade rock. Pitch 2 is short and ends abruptly in a strange spot.

Slabberific, climb it once and maybe twice. Feb 28, 2005
Kaner   Eagle
Climbed both pitches today, amazing climb. Awesome exposure, freaked me out everytime I was above pro and looked down. I found it harder than 10a.... It was the first time I've seriously relied on gear, so the head game could have had an effect. Or, I might just suck. ORRRR, you might just be too good. Quit climbing so much, cut your hair, get a job. Just kidding. Mar 13, 2007
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
5.10a Such a cool route. Classic positioning and nice length. Requires some nerve and finesse, plus as an added bonus you get to place some pro! Mar 19, 2007
Michael Walker
Loveland, CO
Michael Walker   Loveland, CO
Good route. I don't know why I should feel thankful for not finding bolts next to cracks, but I was - made the route worthwhile. 2nd pitch was great, excellent face climbing and great pro. I'd climb again. 5.9+. Nov 17, 2007
Rob Kepley
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
Fun route with cool moves on first pitch. Jan 9, 2008
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
I self belayed this (again) yesterday and didn't bring any trad gear. That was a mistake. There are a couple of big runouts between bolts. In particular, after the first crux is a groundfall runout on medium difficult climbing. Apr 12, 2009
Falmouth (MA)
proto   Falmouth (MA)
Led it today. I used a 0.4 on the first pitch and a 0.5 C4 on the second. Nice route very well protected. You don't need 12 QD as stated in the book, 7 QD and 2 runners are enough. Oct 6, 2009
prod. Kenny
Boulder, Co
prod. Kenny   Boulder, Co
Fun route, but if this is 5.10a, then what is the Yellow Spur?

Prod. Mar 26, 2012
Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
Such a fun route! Mostly cruiser, 1 or 2 definitive cruxes.... May 3, 2013
Eliot Augusto
Eliot Augusto   Colorado
GREAT route. My first lead on a 10. Loved every second of it. In an effort to practice more passive gear placement, the pink and brown tri-cams are great for pro around where you would put the Aliens. Feb 18, 2014
Dale Haas and I replaced the 1/4" quicklinks and 3/8" links of chain at the first belay with Fixe SS double ring hangers. The hardware was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association(ASCA -safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.

We also tightened up the third bolt on the first pitch(crux) which was very loose.

As an aside, Dale and I placed those original anchors on the route shortly after the FA in 2002, so they have been up there for 14 years. Because of the leaning nature of this route, nobody ever top ropes it, which means that this anchor is only used for rappel. The 3/8" links of chain through which the rope is threaded during rappel look almost new with no real signs of wear. This is yet another example of how lowering through hardware greatly increases the wear. Jul 25, 2016
Tim Meehan
Boulder, CO
Tim Meehan   Boulder, CO
The fall line for the second, lower rappel takes you off the left side of the arete. Probably better to head off sooner than later, so you don't pendulum too much, scraping your rope over the arete's edge. Oct 4, 2017