Type: Trad, Sport, 200 ft, 3 pitches Fixed Hardware (18)
FA: Kent Lugbill & Greg Hand 11/3/06 & 12/15/06 & 3/14/2007
Page Views: 6,162 total · 42/month
Shared By: Greg Hand on Nov 3, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


64 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Pitch1: Walk right from Where's Ray along a ledge to a yellow/orange lichen corner. Place a green Alien, and traverse right and up on easy rock to the first bolt. Place a blue Alien before the 2nd bolt and clip three more bolts as the rock gets steeper. Crux at last bolt. Fun climbing on small positive edges.

Pitch2: (12/15/2006) Face climb up past 2 bolts and follow easy climbing to a 3rd bolt (crux). Small wire may be placed and climb up and left to 4th bolt and anchors above. May be climbed as 1 pitch.

Pitch3: (3/14/2007) When doing the 3rd pitch, you should belay at the top of the first pitch of the Bihedral Arete. Climb just right of the belay (red Alien and small wire to protect a hard start), then follow 6 bolts to the new anchor slightly higher (and more comfortable) than the anchor for the Bihedral Arete. Crux is at the last 2 bolts.

My father lasted 19 days on Iwo Jima before being injured.

Location

20 feet right of Where's Ray.

Protection

Pitch 1: Four bolts to a 2-bolt anchor plus green and blue Alien.

Pitch 2: Four bolts to a 2-bolt anchor plus small wires after 3rd bolt.

Pitch 3: Red Alien plus small wire at the start, then 6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

60 meter rope easily gets you to the ground from the second anchor.
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
 
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
 
Got to lead the third pitch two days after it was put up. Thought it was a real nice pitch and certainly more than well worth doing. Echo Ron's words of good job to Greg and Kent. Have to admit though to wimping out a bit at the start and heading left for a bit. Somehow casting off into the unknown thin crack only protected by a small wire nut with the fall consequence being onto the anchor, it didn't seem like a good idea at the time, but next time! Mar 19, 2007
tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
 
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
 
Great way to end Bihedral Arete if you didn't bring pro! Apr 16, 2007
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
 
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
 
This is a nice climb with distinct and varied cruxes on each of the three pitches. Apr 30, 2007
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
I had to get out today after not climbing outside for 5 weeks. I self-belayed this just beating the rain. I did it as one pitch at about 200' with a few feet to spare. The distance is not accurate, because I was using my shortened 70m which is approximately but not exactly 60m. The P1 crux took me a long time. Tried to the right, straight up, to the left. Repeat. I eventually climbed to the right of the bolts. There is one hard move on each of P2 and P3, with the P3 move right off the ledge. Jan 5, 2008
Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
Jay Eggleston   Denver
 
Climbed today and only placed gear on the first pitch. Gear could be placed starting the third pitch, but it is not absolutely necessary. Feb 4, 2013
James Hicks
Grand Junction, CO
  5.10a/b
James Hicks   Grand Junction, CO
  5.10a/b
I should have paid closer attention to the route description.... Got up it with no gear, and it's doable that way, not that I can recommend anyone do it though. Just make sure and keep your wits about you, because a fall before clipping the first bolt or while below the second bolt could be quite bad without any gear in the crack. It's not super difficult, but it does get a bit thin. Jan 20, 2014
The description for the third pitch reads:

"When doing the 3rd pitch, you should belay at the 2nd belay of the Bihedral Arete."

Shouldn't this actually read:

"When doing the 3rd pitch, you should belay at the top of the first pitch of the Bihedral Arete."

The term "2nd belay" is a bit confusing. Does that mean the belay for the start of the 2nd pitch (in this case probably, yes), but it might also mean at the end of the 2nd pitch (which in this case would be incorrect). Jul 22, 2016