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Routes in The Bihedral (Upper Tier)
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A Fly in the Ointment T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Acid Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Acid Rock T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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AHR S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Backdoor Slider S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bihedral T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Bihedral (Upper Tier) | 9914, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Bihedral Arete T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Blood Diamond S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Crack Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Dan's Line S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Daydreaming T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Diamonds and Rust S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dihedral Variation T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Edge of Reality S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R |
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Fat Tuesday T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Flags of Our Fathers T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Flesh Eating Flies S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Group Therapy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hesitantly Decisive T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Heterohedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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High Hard One S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Hold The Line S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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It's Time For Change T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Just Putin Around T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Left-Handed Tool T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Night Moves T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Oh Boy T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pariah S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Puff Daddy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rhodian Shores S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rhodian, Naturally T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R |
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Sands of Iwo Jima S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sun Spot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Thumb Tack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Tool King T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Trick or Treat T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Where's Ray? S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 270 ft (82 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 40.0035, -105.3964 |
| FA: | Tobias and Cunningham (1971) or Tobias and Pierce (1970) |
| Page Views: | 1,203 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | George Bracksieck on Dec 29, 2013 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2025 - Bitty Buttress, Blob, Security Risk reopened. Eagle Rock opened 5/19/25.
Details
On 5/19/25 Eagle Rock opened. On 3/14/25: Bitty Buttress, Blob, & SR reopened.
2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk closed for raptor nesting.
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: USFS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock is closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk closed for raptor nesting.
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: USFS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock is closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
I have found descriptions of this route in the following guidebooks: Ament and Erickson's "5.10" (1972); Ament and McCarty's "High over Boulder" (1976 and 1985); Rossiter's "Boulder Climbs North" (1988); and Rossiter's "Boulder Canyon" (1999). In the first of these guides, the name of Tobias's partner is different from the one listed in the subsequent three. Each of these guides contains a different description of the route; BCN has a vague topo that shows the beginning of the route (in a position that is different from at least one of the written descriptions); BCN and BC have good photos of the Bihedral area (without showing the route's location). Rossiter's photos show many possibilities. Because guidebook writers often just paraphrase previously published descriptions, while attempting to disguise outright plagiarism, perpetuating contradictory and/or vague information is often the result.
Whew, lots of dissection of unimportant trivia. Good thing these aren't important trivia.
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