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Routes in The Bihedral (Upper Tier)

A Fly in the Ointment T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
AHR S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Acid Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Acid Rock T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bihedral T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bihedral Arete T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blood Diamond S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Case of the Fags T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Crack Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Dan's Line S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daydreaming T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Diamonds and Rust S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dihedral Variation T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Edge of Reality S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
Fat Tuesday T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Flags of Our Fathers T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flesh Eating Flies S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Group Therapy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hesitantly Decisive T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Heterohedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
High Hard One S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hold The Line S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
It's Time For Change T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Just Putin Around T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Left-Handed Tool T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Night Moves T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Oh Boy T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pariah S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Puff Daddy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rhodian Shores S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rhodian, Naturally T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Sands of Iwo Jima S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sun Spot T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thumb Tack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tool King T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trick or Treat T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Where's Ray? S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft
FA: Ron Olsen and Bob D'Antonio, 1/20/09
Page Views: 4,791 total, 44/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Jan 20, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

It's Time For Change is dedicated to Barack Obama, who was inaugurated as the 44th President of the United States on the day of the first ascent.

Fun moves and exhilarating exposure make this one of the best moderate routes at the crag.

Climb Night Moves past the first three bolts to a good ledge. Continue up a short right-facing corner to another ledge. Stem up a steep dihedral and pull left onto an airy arete (crux). Follow the arete to the anchor.

Note: Climb almost straight up the arete; don't go too far left or you'll miss the bolts and the anchor.

Location

On the big shelf on the left side of the Bihedral, where Night Moves and Diamonds and Rust begin. The route shares the first three bolts with Night Moves before splitting off to the left.

Protection

8 bolts and three optional gear placements (yellow Alien, green #.75 and yellow #2 Camalots). Two-bolt anchor with lowering hooks. Strong leaders may be happy with just the bolts.

Photos

Didn't read the comments before and pulled out the chalked up rock mentioned in the previous comment. Might be 5.8+ now! Aug 11, 2017
Matt Bentley
Boulder, CO
  5.8
Matt Bentley   Boulder, CO
  5.8
I climbed this today, and there's a loose stone wedged in a V-crack about 2/3 of the way up the route (pretty much right at the crux). It has tons of chalk on it, but it wiggles once you pull on it a bit. I had to swing around the left side of the route to make it up safely.

Just be careful pulling on that wiggly, chalky jug. Maybe someone should remove it? It's fairly small but could cause some damage to a belayer below, particularly one without a helmet if it breaks off.

Swinging around the left side doesn't change the grade and is still a fun way to get to the top. Jun 4, 2017
Climbed this today after the block had been removed. No change in the grade of the route. No need to bring any trad gear for this route. Jun 7, 2016
The discussion surrounding the loose block on this route can be found here:

mountainproject.com/v/bocan… Jun 5, 2016
Gregger Man
Broomfield, CO
 
Gregger Man   Broomfield, CO
 
Death block on the arete is gone. Jun 5, 2016
Will Davis
Denver, CO
Will Davis   Denver, CO
The death rock near bolt 7 is ready to go and is extremely loose. This route is not worth climbing, I highly recommend avoiding it until the rock (that others have also mentioned above) falls. If it fell and hit someone, it could easily kill them. It's also possible that it could go all the way to the road. Jan 18, 2016
Do not climb! Read Tom and Tony above.

I quit the climb at the crux, because I heard the rock moving on a hand jam just before you climb left to the arete. I abandoned the climb and made it home safely.

Stay off until it falls. The loose piece was even with the chains (and 15 feet left) of the route right Night Moves. Nov 17, 2015
Seb303
Denver, CO
  5.9
Seb303   Denver, CO
  5.9
I led this route on Sat. Oct. 31st with only quickdraws. It this is a 5.8, every other 5.8 in the upper tier needs to be downgraded to a 5.7. I've led them all, and the difficulty is no comparison to this route. I did not encounter any loose rock at the crux or on the arete others have spoken off. I really enjoyed this climb and will climb it again soon bringing some cams next time and specifically looking for loose rock. I rate this a 5.9 grade. It's a 5.8+ in the BC guidebook. Nov 5, 2015
A. Bandos
Broomfield
A. Bandos   Broomfield
I found this route a lot of fun. Very varied compared to all the other slab routes nearby. A little spicey with bad landing if you don't use any cams.

That big loose block by the 7th clip is still there. It made a grinding sound when I unknowingly pulled on it. Apr 17, 2014
Seems like all of the loose blocks are still there. The 15x12-inch block wedged like a chockstone may actually help keep the much bigger one on its right from collapsing to the left. Maybe better to leave it. Just above, the next-to-last (7th?) bolt is placed in a big block that vibrated when I pounded on it with my hand. Alpine training or Russian roulette? May 4, 2012
David A
Stockholm, Sweden
David A   Stockholm, Sweden
I'm down for the trundling expedition for the loose block. Sep 21, 2011
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.8
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.8
The loose block is a detractor. That thing is more than big enough to kill a belayer or several people on the lower left crag. It would pinball down the corner right to the belayer too- so death is not some remote possibility, it is real. This should be cleaned in a controlled fasion with a verified CLEAR lower tier.
Otherwise, the route is long and varied, and so not bad. Jun 16, 2010
I also agree with the previous post's about the large rock right below bolt #7 at the crux. It was very loose when I arrived at the crux and I stopped the climb because of it. It needs to be cleared off safely by strapping it and lowering it down. Being that it is right at the crux, I would not climb this route till it is taken care of properly. Aug 25, 2009
Good fun route with some nice exposure. There is definitely some loose rock. I nearly pulled off a chicken head while climbing it near the second bolt. Looks like people use that hold a lot, and it's bound to go sometime. Some of the boulders on the arete also looks suspect. They are bomber now, but may loosen up after time. May 20, 2009
Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
Jay Eggleston   Denver
 
Fun route, but there is some very suspect rock making up the arete. Hope it does not "Change" any time soon. May 12, 2009
jcntrl
Smoulder, CO
  5.8
jcntrl   Smoulder, CO
  5.8
Beware some loose rock in the crack near the crux block towards the top. It shouldn't be a problem, just be mindful of what you pull on (as you should always...).

Bolts are where you need 'em, but there is a section of fairly runout easy climbing. No problem; bring some gear if it makes you feel better, or just keep your wits about you as you make easy moves to the next bolt. May 9, 2009
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Fun route with some wild moves! Let's hope the crux block doesn't feel it's time for change. There are several loose appearing blocks near the crux but upon closer inspection they seem solidly wedged. Mar 22, 2009
John Maguire
Boulder, CO
  5.8+
John Maguire   Boulder, CO
  5.8+
Really fun route and great place to climb sport. Nice to see you on the climb, Ron. Thanks again for all your work here. Feb 7, 2009
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
Nice addition guys. I was wondering if someone else would have put up a commemorative route on such an auspicious day. My own commemorating was a new crag, Inaugural Crag, and a new route installed, prepped, and ready to go, but not yet red pointed (Ascendancy). The change has begun. Jan 26, 2009