Type: Sport, 100 ft Fixed Hardware (10)
FA: Steve Muller, Dianne Barrow, and Mark Rolofson, 1997?
Page Views: 5,753 total · 26/month
Shared By: Kreighton Bieger on May 11, 2001 with improvements by Patrick Sherry
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Rossiter calls this a 9, and I believe Rolofson a 10. It felt harder than 9. This demands good slab technique and is bolted a bit for the taller person, even though the bolts are closely spaced. That said, the route begins 15 feet left of the left-facing dihedral that is P1 of the Bihedral route and ascends a low-angle slab which steepens near the top. Two tricky sequences get the blood flowing at the third and fifth bolts. This is a great route.


[8] well-spaced bolts to a two-bolt Fixe anchor with lowering hooks that is shared with Hold The Line.


I thought it was a great route - at least, much better than Bihedral to the right of it, which seemed like a sandbag on both pitches with poor gear on the second pitch. It felt maybe a bit harder than 9 on a couple of moves, but the rating is probably accurate for a slab. Jan 1, 2001
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
I also thought this route 5.10- in one section (3rd bolt or so?). I enjoyed the route as well as the Bihedral, I would not say the Bihedral is much worse. It is just trad climbing vs. sport. Aug 2, 2001
This was a great route, albeit harder than the 5.9 rating it was given by Rossiter. I'd agree with 10a. Requires very good footwork and slab climbing techniques. One of the better sport routes I've done in the canyon. Feb 1, 2002
Scott Conner
Lyons, CO
Scott Conner   Lyons, CO
I'd say 10a around the third bolt. I stepped right thinking the vertical seams might provide some solace but made for a tricky return back left. The rest felt 5.9. A great climb! May 13, 2002
Good line on great rock. I agree on the 10a rating. We linked this with the 2nd pitch of the Bihedral route--very nice. A few things: I would suggest climbing past the anchors (about another 15-20ft) to the base of the the 2nd pitch to set your belay--much more comfortable and easier to manage your rope. Second thing-leave the nuts and Aliens on the ground; the second pitch is all about .75"-4" cams. If you don't have a 3.5" or a 4" cam, you're in for a dicey runout. Last thing-there are good slings on a tree at the top that you can rap off. Really fun combination--it might just have been good timing, but despite the crowds on the Riviera below, nobody was up there. Jul 1, 2002
This route is certainly 5.10. 10b sounds about right; a good comparable is Le Nouveau Riche, next door at the Riviera. Aug 6, 2002
I would rate this a 10a as well. 3rd and 4th bolts are the crux. Great slab climb! May 13, 2003
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
If it matters, the crux seemed to be between bolt 2&3 per 5 folks with whom I've climbed this. High step L or R foot works. Maybe L foot is better? May 22, 2003
Ernie Port
Boulder, Colorado
Ernie Port   Boulder, Colorado
Definitely the crux is the 4th clip, involving a thin finger tip seam about eye level and a sequence of delicate foot placements out left, working up and left to a nice ledge and much better stances. Have the draw in your mouth ready to clip. Two very small openings in the seam favor skinny finger tips. Felt (10) to me. The upper half is also interesting with an undercling and a flake with more positive holds. Fun stuff. 3 Stars. Jun 15, 2003
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
The crux for me was getting up to and past the third bolt. I also ended up stepping a bit up and to the right to make the third clip, but, as mentioned above, doing so makes for a difficult traverse back. Very solid and continuous climbing. I remember only eight bolts to the anchors. Aug 13, 2003
brent pohlmann
San Francisco, CA
brent pohlmann   San Francisco, CA
This was a great route with moves all the way to the top! Does anyone know a way to get dogs up to the Bihedral area without making your dog do a "5.12-R-dog-move"? Aspen had a harder time climbing up there then we did! Oct 13, 2005
Boulder, CO
pfwein   Boulder, CO
I believe Rossiter's rating was taken from feedback from my partner and me. Our 5.9 rating was relative to traditional 5.9 climbs in BC; we weren't familiar with the new rating system back then. Good alternative first pitch to the bihedral. I did Over the Hill (real 10b) a few weeks after this route--OTH felt MUCH harder. So 5.9 is probably accurate. May 8, 2006
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
Foot-intensive, interesting climbing. Some of the bolts aren't in the best spots, but they'll get you where you want to go. Nov 20, 2007
prod. Kenny
Boulder, Co
prod. Kenny   Boulder, Co
Fun climb. Well protected. Somewhere between a 9 and a 10. It's a sport climb? Oct 2, 2011
Marty Combs
Boulder, CO
Marty Combs   Boulder, CO
As far as the rating goes, if you wander left and right a lot it may go at 5.9. If you hug the bolt line, it's probably 5.10b. Oct 12, 2011
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
In regard to the Rossiter 9 rating, perhaps a run on his 2nd pitch of Climb of the Ancient Mariner, 5.9, on the Bookend or P5 of Birds of Fire, 5.9, might serve as a good grounding for slabbier granite (not my forte). Apr 28, 2015
Caleb Gruber
Denver, CO
Caleb Gruber   Denver, CO
Straight slab climbing with thin holds from bolt 1 to 6, my feet were throbbing! Staying directly under the bolt line is definitely 5.10b or c even. Smear those toes, trust those edges! Feb 18, 2018
Weston Hamilton
Denver, CO
Weston Hamilton   Denver, CO
Every time I climb a new route I get on here to discover someone thinks it’s a 5.9. Rhodian Shores is actually so 5.4 slab, just solo it. Jokes aside, sure you can make it up a route by going way left and right of the bolts but this is solid at 10 something if you go straight up the bolt line and is three stars if you do that, so do that. Great for a winter climb also. Jan 11, 2019
Mark Rolofson
Boulder, CO
Mark Rolofson   Boulder, CO
Amazing how difficult it is for so many educated, literate people (who post routes on MP) to correctly count the number of bolts, even when some guidebooks have it correct (not Bob D'Antonio's great book of mistakes). There are 8 bolts / 2 Fixe rings.

This was the first sport route on the wall. Many thanks to Steve Muller (Dianne's brother) for envisioning the line up this clean slab & inviting me to bring my drill & bolts up to help establish this route. The three of us enjoyed climbing on the Bihedral back when very few people did. Today it was totally mobbed with big groups. Not enough developed rock on the Front Range to accommodate the weekend crowds. Best to climb at this crag during the week.

One of the Best 5.10 slabs in the canyon. The hardest moves begin at the 2nd bolt & continue past the 3rd bolt. Depending where you climb (left or right of the bolt), another hard section can be encountered at the 5th bolt. Apr 14, 2019