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Routes in The Bihedral (Upper Tier)

A Fly in the Ointment T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
AHR S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Acid Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Acid Rock T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bihedral T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bihedral Arete T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blood Diamond S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Case of the Fags T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Crack Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Dan's Line S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daydreaming T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Diamonds and Rust S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dihedral Variation T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Edge of Reality S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
Fat Tuesday T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Flags of Our Fathers T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flesh Eating Flies S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Group Therapy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hesitantly Decisive T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Heterohedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
High Hard One S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hold The Line S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
It's Time For Change T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Just Putin Around T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Left-Handed Tool T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Night Moves T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Oh Boy T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pariah S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Puff Daddy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rhodian Shores S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rhodian, Naturally T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Sands of Iwo Jima S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sun Spot T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thumb Tack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tool King T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trick or Treat T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Where's Ray? S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 100 ft Fixed Hardware (10)
FA: Steve Muller, Dianne Barrow, and Mark Rolofson, 1997?
Page Views: 5,142 total, 25/month
Shared By: Kreighton Bieger on May 11, 2001 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Rossiter calls this a 9, and I believe Rolofson a 10. It felt harder than 9. This demands good slab technique and is bolted a bit for the taller person, even though the bolts are closely spaced. That said, the route begins 15 feet left of the left-facing dihedral that is P1 of the Bihedral route and ascends a low-angle slab which steepens near the top. Two tricky sequences get the blood flowing at the third and fifth bolts. This is a great route.

Protection

9 well-spaced bolts to a two-bolt anchor with lowering hooks that is shared with Hold The Line.
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
In regard to the Rossiter 9 rating, perhaps a run on his 2nd pitch of Climb of the Ancient Mariner, 5.9, on the Bookend or P5 of Birds of Fire, 5.9, might serve as a good grounding for slabbier granite (not my forte). Apr 28, 2015
Marty Combs
Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Marty Combs   Boulder, CO
  5.10b
As far as the rating goes, if you wander left and right a lot it may go at 5.9. If you hug the bolt line, it's probably 5.10b. Oct 12, 2011
prod. Kenny
Boulder, Co
  5.10a
prod. Kenny   Boulder, Co
  5.10a
Fun climb. Well protected. Somewhere between a 9 and a 10. It's a sport climb? Oct 2, 2011
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.10b
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.10b
Foot-intensive, interesting climbing. Some of the bolts aren't in the best spots, but they'll get you where you want to go. Nov 20, 2007
pfwein
Boulder, CO
  5.9
pfwein   Boulder, CO
  5.9
I believe Rossiter's rating was taken from feedback from my partner and me. Our 5.9 rating was relative to traditional 5.9 climbs in BC; we weren't familiar with the new rating system back then. Good alternative first pitch to the bihedral. I did Over the Hill (real 10b) a few weeks after this route--OTH felt MUCH harder. So 5.9 is probably accurate. May 8, 2006
brent pohlmann
San Francisco, CA
 
brent pohlmann   San Francisco, CA
 
This was a great route with moves all the way to the top! Does anyone know a way to get dogs up to the Bihedral area without making your dog do a "5.12-R-dog-move"? Aspen had a harder time climbing up there then we did! Oct 13, 2005
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
 
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
 
The crux for me was getting up to and past the third bolt. I also ended up stepping a bit up and to the right to make the third clip, but, as mentioned above, doing so makes for a difficult traverse back. Very solid and continuous climbing. I remember only eight bolts to the anchors. Aug 13, 2003
Ernie Port
Boulder, Colorado
Ernie Port   Boulder, Colorado
Definitely the crux is the 4th clip, involving a thin finger tip seam about eye level and a sequence of delicate foot placements out left, working up and left to a nice ledge and much better stances. Have the draw in your mouth ready to clip. Two very small openings in the seam favor skinny finger tips. Felt (10) to me. The upper half is also interesting with an undercling and a flake with more positive holds. Fun stuff. 3 Stars. Jun 15, 2003
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
If it matters, the crux seemed to be between bolt 2&3 per 5 folks with whom I've climbed this. High step L or R foot works. Maybe L foot is better? May 22, 2003
I would rate this a 10a as well. 3rd and 4th bolts are the crux. Great slab climb! May 13, 2003
This route is certainly 5.10. 10b sounds about right; a good comparable is Le Nouveau Riche, next door at the Riviera. Aug 6, 2002
Good line on great rock. I agree on the 10a rating. We linked this with the 2nd pitch of the Bihedral route--very nice. A few things: I would suggest climbing past the anchors (about another 15-20ft) to the base of the the 2nd pitch to set your belay--much more comfortable and easier to manage your rope. Second thing-leave the nuts and Aliens on the ground; the second pitch is all about .75"-4" cams. If you don't have a 3.5" or a 4" cam, you're in for a dicey runout. Last thing-there are good slings on a tree at the top that you can rap off. Really fun combination--it might just have been good timing, but despite the crowds on the Riviera below, nobody was up there. Jul 1, 2002
Scott Conner
Lyons, CO
Scott Conner   Lyons, CO
I'd say 10a around the third bolt. I stepped right thinking the vertical seams might provide some solace but made for a tricky return back left. The rest felt 5.9. A great climb! May 13, 2002
This was a great route, albeit harder than the 5.9 rating it was given by Rossiter. I'd agree with 10a. Requires very good footwork and slab climbing techniques. One of the better sport routes I've done in the canyon. Feb 1, 2002
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
I also thought this route 5.10- in one section (3rd bolt or so?). I enjoyed the route as well as the Bihedral, I would not say the Bihedral is much worse. It is just trad climbing vs. sport. Aug 2, 2001
I thought it was a great route - at least, much better than Bihedral to the right of it, which seemed like a sandbag on both pitches with poor gear on the second pitch. It felt maybe a bit harder than 9 on a couple of moves, but the rating is probably accurate for a slab. Jan 1, 2001