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Routes in The Bihedral (Upper Tier)

A Fly in the Ointment T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
AHR S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Acid Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Acid Rock T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bihedral T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bihedral Arete T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blood Diamond S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Case of the Fags T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Crack Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Dan's Line S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daydreaming T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Diamonds and Rust S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dihedral Variation T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Edge of Reality S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
Fat Tuesday T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Flags of Our Fathers T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flesh Eating Flies S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Group Therapy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hesitantly Decisive T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Heterohedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
High Hard One S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hold The Line S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
It's Time For Change T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Just Putin Around T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Left-Handed Tool T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Night Moves T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Oh Boy T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pariah S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Puff Daddy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rhodian Shores S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rhodian, Naturally T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Sands of Iwo Jima S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sun Spot T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thumb Tack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tool King T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trick or Treat T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Where's Ray? S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Ron Olsen and Mike Amato, 3/20/07
Page Views: 4,329 total · 33/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Mar 20, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Puff Daddy climbs the bulging headwall above Hold The Line and Dan's Line. It can be done as a second pitch after either of these routes. The climbing looks steep and improbable, but edges and holds appear just where you need them. Well bolted in the hard sections so there's a minimal fear factor.

Climb Hold The Line (5.9) and belay at the anchor at 100'. Alternatively, climb Dan's Line (5.8) and belay at the higher anchor at 110'. This anchor is about 20' left and 10' higher than the anchor on Hold The Line.

From Hold The Line, climb up and left on easy rock. You can place a red Alien or purple Camalot in a crack about 10' above the belay. Continue to a horizontal crack, where you can place another red Alien or purple Camalot. Step up and clip the first bolt. This is about 25' above the belay, but the climbing is easy.

From Dan's Line, climb straight up easy rock to the horizontal crack, place a red Alien or purple Camalot if desired, and step up and clip the first bolt.

Continue up the headwall, which gets harder the higher you go, to a bulging section at the sixth bolt. Work up on thin holds (crux), hang in and make the seventh clip, and continue up past one more bolt to the anchor. Lower back down and let your partner have a shot at it. If you want to belay from the top, continue up and right about 15' to a higher anchor on a ledge. From this higher anchor, rap back down to the anchor atop Hold The Line.

From the anchor on Hold The Line, you can rappel back to the ground with a 60m rope.

Location

This is a second pitch that starts atop Hold The Line or Dan's Line.

Protection

8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with lowering hooks. Optional red Aliens/purple Camalots can be placed before the first bolt. Lower or rappel with a 60m rope, then do another rappel to the ground. There is a higher anchor, above and right of the lowering anchor, if you want to belay from the top.

Photos

Seb303
Denver, CO
 
Seb303   Denver, CO
 
You don't need a cam for this route, the runout before the first bolt is super easy...like 5.4 or less. This is a fun route that's very well-protected and the hard moves aren't until the end. It would be hard to find a more perfect route for someone's first 5.10 lead. Apr 15, 2016
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
A pretty good climb with some unique and fun moves near the top. Most of the "new" climbing in this area I've found unremarkable, but I enjoyed this route.
When done from the ground up as a single 55m pitch with Hold the Line, this is a 3-Star climb. But don't fall from the crux with so much rope out, or you'd take a long ride. Jun 8, 2010
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.9
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.9
This felt significantly easier than P1 of Flags of Our Father. The top, although steep, had obvious climbing with mostly very positive hand holds, although some are small. Jan 13, 2008
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
This is a fun line, although a little over bolted at the top. I would recommended linking this pitch with the 5.9 or 5.10 below for a full value 185ft lead. Jan 4, 2008
Chris O'Connor
boulder, co
  5.10a
Chris O'Connor   boulder, co
  5.10a
Great route, Ron! Sep 4, 2007
Nick Wilder
The Bubble
 
Nick Wilder   The Bubble  
 
Nice addition to the area. 5.8 climbing from the start until the last 20 feet, when it steepens and the holds get much smaller. Lichen is mostly removed where you don't want it. The upper section very well protected, the lower section is bordering on excessive. Apr 26, 2007
Amy Slaymaker
Boulder, CO
Amy Slaymaker   Boulder, CO
Puff Daddy was a great climb. Started by leading Dan's Line, used the higher anchor, then continued up Puff Daddy. Well-placed bolts and didn't feel any need for additional pro. Thanks Ron and Mike for your work on this. It was clean enough to enjoy. Rappeled down to the anchor for Hold the Line (using a 60m rope) which seemed the smoothest and fastest way down. Apr 2, 2007

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