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Routes in The Bihedral (Upper Tier)

A Fly in the Ointment T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
AHR S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Acid Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Acid Rock T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bihedral T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bihedral Arete T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blood Diamond S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Case of the Fags T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Crack Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Dan's Line S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daydreaming T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Diamonds and Rust S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dihedral Variation T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Edge of Reality S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
Fat Tuesday T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Flags of Our Fathers T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flesh Eating Flies S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Group Therapy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hesitantly Decisive T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Heterohedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
High Hard One S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hold The Line S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
It's Time For Change T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Just Putin Around T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Left-Handed Tool T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Night Moves T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Oh Boy T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pariah S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Puff Daddy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rhodian Shores S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rhodian, Naturally T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Sands of Iwo Jima S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sun Spot T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thumb Tack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tool King T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trick or Treat T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Where's Ray? S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: George Bracksieck and Patti Smith
Page Views: 706 total, 12/month
Shared By: Jay Eggleston on Mar 29, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is a fun crack, mostly hands and big hands, that goes through a small overhang near the bottom. George Bracksieck thought it was about 5.9, but it is definitely harder. He climbed it in 1975, so maybe opinions have changed. If it was longer, it would be classic. It is fun though.

Location

This is the crack to the right of Case of the Fags. You start with the first three bolts of It's Time for Change, going to a large ledge. From the ledge, go up another crack on the right to a small ledge at the start of the main crack. To get down, climb down to the anchors on Left-Handed Tool. It is best to belay at the top of the climb itself.

Protection

Bring a rack with some large cams. We used two #4 Camalots and 2 #3 Camalots. We used some smaller cams as well but no nuts. I think the smallest cam needed is a #1 Camalot. The anchor can be made with #2 Camalots and maybe a #1.

Photos

I led Patti Smith up this on May 16, 1975. We climbed the easy gully/crack system below it, to get to the main ledge. We called the crack "Acid Crack," because we, later that day, climbed what we thought was "Acid Rock," which was in the 1972 guidebook "5.10," written by Pat Ament and Jim Erickson. Whatever we climbed was to the right of AC and to the left of the Bihedral route. We, as it turns out, didn't climb anywhere near "Acid Rock." Instead, we climbed what would later be named "Sun Spot." Feb 15, 2014
Kevin P
Loveland
 
Kevin P   Loveland
 
This doesn't see a lot of traffic, so the crack is pretty hard on the hands. I lost a considerable amount of my epidermis. I would recommend tape. Mar 29, 2013