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Routes in The Bihedral (Upper Tier)

A Fly in the Ointment T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
AHR S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Acid Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Acid Rock T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bihedral T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bihedral Arete T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blood Diamond S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Case of the Fags T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Crack Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Dan's Line S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daydreaming T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Diamonds and Rust S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dihedral Variation T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Edge of Reality S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
Fat Tuesday T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Flags of Our Fathers T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flesh Eating Flies S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Group Therapy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hesitantly Decisive T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Heterohedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
High Hard One S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hold The Line S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
It's Time For Change T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Just Putin Around T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Left-Handed Tool T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Night Moves T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Oh Boy T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pariah S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Puff Daddy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rhodian Shores S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rhodian, Naturally T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Sands of Iwo Jima S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sun Spot T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thumb Tack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tool King T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trick or Treat T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Where's Ray? S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, 110 ft
FA: March 1998
Page Views: 157 total, 1/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on May 22, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

If you only like/climb sport climbs, ignore this submission. It has later been bordered by couple sport climbs.

This was a little naturally-protected line just L of Bihedral. It certainly may 'ave been climbed previously. Historically speaking, we spied the line in 6/97, Rhodian Shores did not have bolts at that time. Mentioned in brief to a sly Mark (oh, well!) and there were bolts there by the next time we went up to do it 10/97 (we were a wee scooped). No tears. Nonetheless, this natural line weaves a backward-shaped S via 3 crack/groove weaknesses. This is for the tradster who may climb traditionally and ignore bolts. You could clip some of the bolts to make it less runout. It is in the shade in the earlier (10ish) morning hours.

Scramble/climb up to the ledges below the Bihedral. Move L into the groove/crack perhaps 10 feet L of Rhodian Shores (8s). Slightly tricky pro here with wires or brassies, Aliens/small cams and you gain the jug (same jug after Rhodian Shores' crux). Easier moves with a bit of runout take you to the large, nearly-horizontal crack. Good pro with larger cams (#3, 4 Camalots). Traverse R to another groove/crack system. Fiddle in a small cam, step up to a jug (9-s). Easy terrain leads you to either the anchor for Rhodian Shores or the belay for Bihedral.

You could consider this an alternative to P1 of the Bihedral if you've done that a bunch 'o times. You may continue with second pitches Heterohedral or Bihedral.

Protection

Standard rack to a #4 Camalot.

Photos

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