Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: George Bracksieck, 1975. Bolts: Ron Olsen, Bill Henson, Gillian Collins, 2/6/09
Page Views: 4,333 total · 36/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Feb 7, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


57 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Sun Spot is a fun new mostly trad route that climbs the big right-facing dihedral between Trick or Treat and Hold The Line. A little easier than the first pitch of the Bihedral Route since it's not as sustained. Bring your trad rack and a few extra big cams and give it a go.

The route name comes from the fact that the Bihedral Area is a great place to climb on a sunny winter day. There were a dozen climbers here on a 50-degree Saturday in February.

Start as for Hold The Line, and scramble left up a ramp to the big right-facing corner. Climb the corner and work up to a bolt on the left. Traverse left at the bolt (crux) onto an arete. Continue up the corner, clip the last bolt on Hold The Line, and continue to a bolt anchor (shared with Hold The Line). Lower from hooks.

Location

Start below the bolts on Hold The Line, and scramble left up a ramp to get to the corner.

Protection

Standard rack with a few extra large cams. Two #3 Camalots and a #4 Camalot are useful. Save one of these big cams to protect a move about 8 feet above the first bolt. 2 bolts and a 2-bolt anchor with lowering hooks.

The route can also be top-roped after leading Hold The Line.

Photos

Justin Deal
Denver, CO
 
Justin Deal   Denver, CO
 
Really enjoyed this climb. I felt like this was a pretty solid 5.7. It had a couple of pretty committing moves and the gear was a little weird. I only clipped the one bolt in the middle, but my partner clipped another one at the top when he led it. I actually didn't use a #3 or a #4 at all even though I brought two 3s and a 4 with me on the climb. Dec 25, 2010
prod. Kenny
Boulder, Co
 
prod. Kenny   Boulder, Co
 
I gave this 3 stars as I think it is a good early 5.7 trad lead. Takes great gear, interesting positions. Good intro lead if you can follow 5.8ish.

Prod. Mar 26, 2012
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.7
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.7
The #4 goes about four feet above the 1st bolt. I did not place a #3, but you certainly could. For my other gear, my biggest piece was a #1. Nov 27, 2013
James Hicks
Grand Junction, CO
James Hicks   Grand Junction, CO
I led this the other day with nothing larger than a #2, and it seemed quite comfortable that way. A couple big cams would make placing gear a bit more straightforward, but I wouldn't say they are required. I also stuck a pink tri-cam in about halfway. Jan 20, 2014