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Sun Spot

5.7, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 2.1 from 72 votes
FA: George Bracksieck, Patti Smith, 1975. Bolts: Ron Olsen, Bill Henson, Gillian Collins, 2/6/09
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Bihedral Area > Bihedral (Upper Tier)
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Description

Sun Spot is a fun new mostly trad route that climbs the big right-facing dihedral between Trick or Treat and Hold The Line. A little easier than the first pitch of the Bihedral Route since it's not as sustained. Bring your trad rack and a few extra big cams and give it a go.

The route name comes from the fact that the Bihedral Area is a great place to climb on a sunny winter day. There were a dozen climbers here on a 50-degree Saturday in February.

Start as for Hold The Line, and scramble left up a ramp to the big right-facing corner. Climb the corner and work up to a bolt on the left. Traverse left at the bolt (crux) onto an arete. Continue up the corner, clip the last bolt on Hold The Line, and continue to a bolt anchor (shared with Hold The Line). Lower from hooks.

Location

Start below the bolts on Hold The Line, and scramble left up a ramp to get to the corner.

Protection

Standard rack with a few extra large cams. Two #3 Camalots and a #4 Camalot are useful. Save one of these big cams to protect a move about 8 feet above the first bolt. 2 bolts and a 2-bolt anchor with lowering hooks.

The route can also be top-roped after leading Hold The Line.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The route.
[Hide Photo] The route.
Arthur Diemunsch tackling the first crux move on a beautiful December day.
[Hide Photo] Arthur Diemunsch tackling the first crux move on a beautiful December day.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Justin Deal
Denver, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Really enjoyed this climb. I felt like this was a pretty solid 5.7. It had a couple of pretty committing moves and the gear was a little weird. I only clipped the one bolt in the middle, but my partner clipped another one at the top when he led it. I actually didn't use a #3 or a #4 at all even though I brought two 3s and a 4 with me on the climb. Dec 25, 2010
Guy Kenny Jr
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] I gave this 3 stars as I think it is a good early 5.7 trad lead. Takes great gear, interesting positions. Good intro lead if you can follow 5.8ish.

Prod. Mar 26, 2012
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.7
[Hide Comment] The #4 goes about four feet above the 1st bolt. I did not place a #3, but you certainly could. For my other gear, my biggest piece was a #1. Nov 27, 2013
James Hicks
Fruita, CO
[Hide Comment] I led this the other day with nothing larger than a #2, and it seemed quite comfortable that way. A couple big cams would make placing gear a bit more straightforward, but I wouldn't say they are required. I also stuck a pink tri-cam in about halfway. Jan 20, 2014
[Hide Comment] For what it’s worth, which isn’t much, I led Patti Smith up this on May 16, 1975. I thought that we were doing an already-established route named Acid Rock after a contemporaneous music genre. Read my comments under Acid Crack, [redacted route name], and Acid Rock. Btw, I climbed this a few years ago, just to confirm my nostalgia. Patti was a rock star! Feb 7, 2021