The Bihedral (Upper Tier) Rock Climbing
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Per Katherine Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a five month closure to protect nesting golden eagles, the Roosevelt National Forest has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in Boulder Canyon.
“The Boulder Canyon eagles successfully raised one strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha with the USDA Forest Service. “Two chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only one survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Post-fledging visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the second chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nesting site. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon. These areas are located along Colorado Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.
Effective through July 31, 2020, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral and Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec…
(click on Boulder Canyon for more info).
Starting 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and all activities until 7/31/2020. This was confirmed with Matt Henry, Recreation Program Manager, Forest Service.
From K. Armstrong, FS Public Affairs, email@example.com, 970-222-7607: starting 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giviSee - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
The Upper Tier of the Bihedral is typical Boulder Canyon granite climbing. Generally less than vertical on bullet-hard grey granite. Good friction with a high concentration of slopers, both large and small, and positive incut edges. The crag itself is identified by a huge, left-facing dihedral and sits on the north side of the canyon. The dihedral is split by a prow about 1/2 way up, the Bihedral.
There are quite a few good routes here, but the most well known is the 2-pitch Bihedral route, which Rossiter so obtusely refers to as "something of a classic".
This area gets good sun and is sometimes sheltered from the wind, which can make it a great place to climb on windless, warmer, winter days.
With a number of new, moderate, mostly bolted routes, this area is a popular place to bring groups and less-experienced climbers. Beware, there are still plenty of loose rocks above.
A. Left-Handed Tool, 8, 1p, 70', bolts & gear.
B. Tool King, 8, 1p, 60', bolts & gear.
C. A Fly in the Ointment, 10-, 1p, 60', bolts & gear.
D. Edge of Reality, 12- R, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. Case of the Fags, 11+, 1p, 70', gear.
F. Acid Crack, 10, 1p, 60', gear.
G1. It's Time For Change, 8, 1p, 95', bolts & gear.
G2. Night Moves, 7, 1p, 60', bolts & gear.
above G2. Daydreaming, 10, 1p, 40', gear.
above G2. Oh Boy, 10+, 1p, 80', gear.
G3. Diamonds and Rust, 8+, 1p, 80', bolts.
H1. Fat Tuesday, 10+, 1p, 90', gear & bolts.
H2. Heterohedral, 9- PG-13, 2p, 240', gear.
H3. Hesitantly Decisive, 9- PG-13, 1p, 100', gear.
I. Blood Diamond, 11+, 1p, 80', gear & bolts.
J. High Hard One, 9, 1p, 80', bolts.
K. Backdoor Slider, 9, 1p 90', bolts.
L. Group Therapy, 8-, 1p, 100', bolts.
ML. Dan's Line, 8-, 1p, 100', bolts.
above M. Puff Daddy, 10-, 1p, 65', bolts.
N. Trick or Treat, 8-, 1p, 100', bolts & gear.
O. Sun Spot, 7, 1p, 100', gear & bolts.
P. Hold The Line, 9, 1p, 100', bolts & optional gear.
Q. Rhodian, Naturally, 9- R, 1p, 100', gear.
R. Rhodian Shores, 10, 1p, 80', bolts.
S. Bihedral, 8+, 2p, 240', gear.
above S. Crack Variation, 9 R, 2p, gear.
T. AHR, 11c/d, 1p, 70', bolts.
U. Dihedral Variation, 9+, 1p, 100', bolts & gear.
V. Bihedral Arete, 10-, 2p, 180', bolts & gear.
W. Where's Ray?, 8+, 1p, 60', bolts.
X. Flags Of Our Fathers, 10-, 3p, 200', bolts & gear.
above X. Sands of Iwo Jima, 11+, 50', bolts.
above X. Thumb Tack, 11+, a final pitch, 1p, gear.
above X. Pariah, 12, 1p, 80', 8 bolts.
Y. Just Putin Around, 9 PG-13, 4p, gear.
Z. Acid Rock, 6-8+ PG-13, 3p, gear.
To the right:
AA. Flesh Eating Flies, 11-, 1p, 60', bolts.
Cross the road, walk down a bit and find a path that zig-zags up the hill, generally heading right (east). When the trail nears the rock on the right, spot a big pine tree next to the rock. Walk right behind the tree and go left around a rock rib. Climb up the rock, with one short 3rd-class section, to a nice ledge at the bottom of the big dihedral. See Approach to routes on the upper tier of the Bihedral. Follow the approach trail up the hill until it cuts right toward the rock at a flat area. Spot a cairn by a big pine tree close to the rock. Head right, past the tree and around a rock rib. Climb the rock, mostly easy with a short 3rd-class section, up to the upper tier. for the easiest approach.
To return, reverse the above approach, or else walk 50' left (west) on a path just below the Bihedral route, to a 2-bolt rappel anchor. Rap 95' down a gully to the top of the approach trail.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Bihedral (Upper Tier)
Days w Precip