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Elevation: 7,020 ft 2,140 m
GPS: 40.0035, -105.3964
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 109,805 total · 384/month
Shared By: Kreighton Bieger on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!) DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The Upper Tier of the Bihedral is typical Boulder Canyon granite climbing. Generally less than vertical on bullet-hard grey granite. Good friction with a high concentration of slopers, both large and small, and positive incut edges. The crag itself is identified by a huge, left-facing dihedral and sits on the north side of the canyon. The dihedral is split by a prow about 1/2 way up, the Bihedral.

There are quite a few good routes here, but the most well known is the 2-pitch Bihedral route, which Rossiter so obtusely refers to as "something of a classic".

This area gets good sun and is sometimes sheltered from the wind, which can make it a great place to climb on windless, warmer, winter days.

With a number of new, moderate, mostly bolted routes, this area is a popular place to bring groups and less-experienced climbers. Beware, there are still plenty of loose rocks above.

L->R:

A. Left-Handed Tool, 8, 1p, 70', bolts & gear.

B. Tool King, 8, 1p, 60', bolts & gear.

C. A Fly in the Ointment, 10-, 1p, 60', bolts & gear.

D. Edge of Reality, 12- R, 1p, 60', bolts.

E. Case of the Fags, 11+, 1p, 70', gear.

F. Acid Crack, 10, 1p, 60', gear.

G1. It's Time For Change, 8, 1p, 95', bolts & gear.

G2. Night Moves, 7, 1p, 60', bolts & gear.

above G2. Daydreaming, 10, 1p, 40', gear.

above G2. Oh Boy, 10+, 1p, 80', gear.

G3. Diamonds and Rust, 8+, 1p, 80', bolts.

H1. Fat Tuesday, 10+, 1p, 90', gear & bolts.

H2. Heterohedral, 9- PG-13, 2p, 240', gear.

H3. Hesitantly Decisive, 9- PG-13, 1p, 100', gear.

I. Blood Diamond, 11+, 1p, 80', gear & bolts.

J. High Hard One, 9, 1p, 80', bolts.

K. Backdoor Slider, 9, 1p 90', bolts.

L. Group Therapy, 8-, 1p, 100', bolts.

ML. Dan's Line, 8-, 1p, 100', bolts.

above M. Puff Daddy, 10-, 1p, 65', bolts.

N. Trick or Treat, 8-, 1p, 100', bolts & gear.

O. Sun Spot, 7, 1p, 100', gear & bolts.

P. Hold The Line, 9, 1p, 100', bolts & optional gear.

Q. Rhodian, Naturally, 9- R, 1p, 100', gear.

R. Rhodian Shores, 10, 1p, 80', bolts.

S. Bihedral, 8+, 2p, 240', gear.

above S. Crack Variation, 9 R, 2p, gear.

T. AHR, 11c/d, 1p, 70', bolts.

U. Dihedral Variation, 9+, 1p, 100', bolts & gear.

V. Bihedral Arete, 10-, 2p, 180', bolts & gear.

W. Where's Ray?, 8+, 1p, 60', bolts.

X. Flags Of Our Fathers, 10-, 3p, 200', bolts & gear.

above X. Sands of Iwo Jima, 11+, 50', bolts.

above X. Thumb Tack, 11+, a final pitch, 1p, gear.

above X. Pariah, 12, 1p, 80', 8 bolts.

Y. Just Putin Around, 9 PG-13, 4p, gear.

Z. Acid Rock, 6-8+ PG-13, 3p, gear.

To the right:

AA. Flesh Eating Flies, 11-, 1p, 60', bolts.

Getting There Suggest change

Drive 7 miles up the canyon (zero at the bridge a la Rossiter), park just before the Riviera at a pullout on the left (same pullout as for Happy Hour Crag), or continue 0.2 miles to shady parking on the left side, just past a guard rail, identified by a west-facing "No Camping" sign nailed to a tree. The huge left-facing dihedral of the Bihedral is obvious above you.

Cross the road, walk down a bit and find a path that zig-zags up the hill, generally heading right (east). When the trail nears the rock on the right, spot a big pine tree next to the rock. Walk right behind the tree and go left around a rock rib. Climb up the rock, with one short 3rd-class section, to a nice ledge at the bottom of the big dihedral. See
for the easiest approach.

To return, reverse the above approach, or else walk 50' left (west) on a path just below the Bihedral route, to a 2-bolt rappel anchor. Rap 95' down a gully to the top of the approach trail.

38 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: The Bihedral (Upper Tier) Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Bihedral (Upper Tier)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 72
Sun Spot
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 198
Dan's Line
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 112
Trick or Treat
Trad, Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 164
Group Therapy
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 92
It's Time For Change
Trad, Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 110
Bihedral
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 254
Hold The Line
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 264
Bihedral Arete
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 81
Flags of Our Fathers
Trad, Sport 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 122
Puff Daddy
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 31
Daydreaming
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 296
Rhodian Shores
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 13
AHR
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 8
Thumb Tack
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 32
Sands of Iwo Jima
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Sun Spot
 72
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Dan's Line
 198
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Trick or Treat
 112
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Sport
Group Therapy
 164
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
It's Time For Change
 92
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Sport
Bihedral
 110
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Hold The Line
 254
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Bihedral Arete
 264
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Flags of Our Fathers
 81
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport 3 pitches
Puff Daddy
 122
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Daydreaming
 31
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Rhodian Shores
 296
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
AHR
 13
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Thumb Tack
 8
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Sands of Iwo Jima
 32
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Bihedral (Upper Tier) »

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