Elevation: 7,020 ft
GPS: 40.004, -105.396 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 77,184 total · 325/month
Shared By: Kreighton Bieger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2020 Update Details

Description

The Upper Tier of the Bihedral is typical Boulder Canyon granite climbing. Generally less than vertical on bullet-hard grey granite. Good friction with a high concentration of slopers, both large and small, and positive incut edges. The crag itself is identified by a huge, left-facing dihedral and sits on the north side of the canyon. The dihedral is split by a prow about 1/2 way up, the Bihedral.

There are quite a few good routes here, but the most well known is the 2-pitch Bihedral route, which Rossiter so obtusely refers to as "something of a classic".

This area gets good sun and is sometimes sheltered from the wind, which can make it a great place to climb on windless, warmer, winter days.

With a number of new, moderate, mostly bolted routes, this area is a popular place to bring groups and less-experienced climbers. Beware, there are still plenty of loose rocks above.

L->R:

A. Left-Handed Tool, 8, 1p, 70', bolts & gear.
B. Tool King, 8, 1p, 60', bolts & gear.
C. A Fly in the Ointment, 10-, 1p, 60', bolts & gear.
D. Edge of Reality, 12- R, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. Case of the Fags, 11+, 1p, 70', gear.
F. Acid Crack, 10, 1p, 60', gear.
G1. It's Time For Change, 8, 1p, 95', bolts & gear.
G2. Night Moves, 7, 1p, 60', bolts & gear.
above G2. Daydreaming, 10, 1p, 40', gear.
above G2. Oh Boy, 10+, 1p, 80', gear.
G3. Diamonds and Rust, 8+, 1p, 80', bolts.
H1. Fat Tuesday, 10+, 1p, 90', gear & bolts.
H2. Heterohedral, 9- PG-13, 2p, 240', gear.
H3. Hesitantly Decisive, 9- PG-13, 1p, 100', gear.
I. Blood Diamond, 11+, 1p, 80', gear & bolts.
J. High Hard One, 9, 1p, 80', bolts.
K. Group Therapy, 8-, 1p, 100', bolts.
L. Dan's Line, 8-, 1p, 100', bolts.
above L. Puff Daddy, 10-, 1p, 65', bolts.
M. Trick or Treat, 8-, 1p, 100', bolts & gear.
N. Sun Spot, 7, 1p, 100', gear & bolts.
O. Hold The Line, 9, 1p, 100', bolts & optional gear.
P. Rhodian, Naturally, 9- R, 1p, 100', gear.
Q. Rhodian Shores, 10, 1p, 80', bolts.
R. Bihedral, 8+, 2p, 240', gear.
above R. Crack Variation, 9 R, 2p, gear.
S. AHR, 11c/d, 1p, 70', bolts.
T. Dihedral Variation, 9+, 1p, 100', bolts & gear.
U. Bihedral Arete, 10-, 2p, 180', bolts & gear.
V. Where's Ray?, 8+, 1p, 60', bolts.
W. Flags Of Our Fathers, 10-, 3p, 200', bolts & gear.
above W. Sands of Iwo Jima, 11+, 50', bolts.
above W. Thumb Tack, 11+, a final pitch, 1p, gear.
above W. Pariah, 12, 1p, 80', 8 bolts.
X. Just Putin Around, 9 PG-13, 4p, gear.
Y. Acid Rock, 6-8+ PG-13, 3p, gear.

To the right:

Z. Flesh Eating Flies, 11-, 1p, 60', bolts.

Getting There

Drive 7 miles up the canyon (zero at the bridge a la Rossiter), park just before the Riviera at a pullout on the left (same pullout as for Happy Hour Crag), or continue 0.2 miles to shady parking on the left side, just past a guard rail, identified by a west-facing "No Camping" sign nailed to a tree. The huge left-facing dihedral of the Bihedral is obvious above you.

Cross the road, walk down a bit and find a path that zig-zags up the hill, generally heading right (east). When the trail nears the rock on the right, spot a big pine tree next to the rock. Walk right behind the tree and go left around a rock rib. Climb up the rock, with one short 3rd-class section, to a nice ledge at the bottom of the big dihedral. See
Approach to routes on the upper tier of the Bihedral. Follow the approach trail up the hill until it cuts right toward the rock at a flat area. Spot a cairn by a big pine tree close to the rock. Head right, past the tree and around a rock rib. Climb the rock, mostly easy with a short 3rd-class section, up to the upper tier. for the easiest approach.

To return, reverse the above approach, or else walk 50' left (west) on a path just below the Bihedral route, to a 2-bolt rappel anchor. Rap 95' down a gully to the top of the approach trail.

37 Total Climbs

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Location: The Bihedral (Upper Tier) Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Bihedral (Upper Tier)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 62
Sun Spot
Trad, Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 167
Dan's Line
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 100
Trick or Treat
Trad, Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 130
Group Therapy
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 81
It's Time For Change
Trad, Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 90
Bihedral
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 210
Hold The Line
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 216
Bihedral Arete
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 69
Flags of Our Fathers
Trad, Sport 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 90
Puff Daddy
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 26
Daydreaming
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 235
Rhodian Shores
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 25
Blood Diamond
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 8
Thumb Tack
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 31
Sands of Iwo Jima
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Sun Spot
 62
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Sport
Dan's Line
 167
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Trick or Treat
 100
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Sport
Group Therapy
 130
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
It's Time For Change
 81
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Sport
Bihedral
 90
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Hold The Line
 210
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Bihedral Arete
 216
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Flags of Our Fathers
 69
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport 3 pitches
Puff Daddy
 90
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Daydreaming
 26
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Rhodian Shores
 235
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Blood Diamond
 25
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Thumb Tack
 8
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Sands of Iwo Jima
 31
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
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