Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: Kent Lugbill
Page Views: 1,537 total · 15/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jun 15, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This is a variation of Tool King that had been previously done. I was surprised at how perfect and solid the upper crack was.

Start up Tool King or the crack and slab to the left and reach a ledge up and left of the 3rd bolt of Tool King. Traverse a few feet left to a very solid handcrack (gold-blue Camalot) and use a long sling to keep the rope somewhat straight. Continue up on 3" gear to the top, where a ledge is reached a few meters left of the Tool King anchors. Place gear and traverse right to the anchors (bolt and chain) to retreat.

Location

Start on or just left of Tool King.

Protection

3 bolts & hand-sized gear + a few longer slings.

Photos

Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
Jay Eggleston   Denver
 
I think climbing the crack at the bottom is the best way to do the route. The bolts will work, but climbing the crack keeps the rope in a straight line and the bottom crack is not too hard. I think I placed a #1 Camalot and a #0.5 Camalot. Mar 29, 2013