Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: Kent Lugbill
Page Views: 1,537 total · 15/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jun 15, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

8 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details


This is a variation of Tool King that had been previously done. I was surprised at how perfect and solid the upper crack was.

Start up Tool King or the crack and slab to the left and reach a ledge up and left of the 3rd bolt of Tool King. Traverse a few feet left to a very solid handcrack (gold-blue Camalot) and use a long sling to keep the rope somewhat straight. Continue up on 3" gear to the top, where a ledge is reached a few meters left of the Tool King anchors. Place gear and traverse right to the anchors (bolt and chain) to retreat.


Start on or just left of Tool King.


3 bolts & hand-sized gear + a few longer slings.


Jay Eggleston
Jay Eggleston   Denver
I think climbing the crack at the bottom is the best way to do the route. The bolts will work, but climbing the crack keeps the rope in a straight line and the bottom crack is not too hard. I think I placed a #1 Camalot and a #0.5 Camalot. Mar 29, 2013