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Routes in The Bihedral (Upper Tier)

A Fly in the Ointment T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
AHR S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Acid Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Acid Rock T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bihedral T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bihedral Arete T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blood Diamond S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Case of the Fags T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Crack Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Dan's Line S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daydreaming T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Diamonds and Rust S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dihedral Variation T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Edge of Reality S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
Fat Tuesday T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Flags of Our Fathers T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flesh Eating Flies S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Group Therapy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hesitantly Decisive T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Heterohedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
High Hard One S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hold The Line S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
It's Time For Change T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Just Putin Around T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Left-Handed Tool T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Night Moves T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Oh Boy T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pariah S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Puff Daddy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rhodian Shores S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rhodian, Naturally T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Sands of Iwo Jima S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sun Spot T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thumb Tack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tool King T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trick or Treat T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Where's Ray? S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Larry Dalke & Cliff Jennings, 1965. FFA: Alan Bradley & Dan Hare, 1984.
Page Views: 3,063 total, 19/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jun 4, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This route is one of two routes up the striking headwall that caps the Bihedral.

This climb can be seen easily from the road on the top 1/4 of the Bihedral. It starts in a overhanging handcrack for a few meters, gains a small square pod/cave, then exits the feature on the right hand side in sustained tight finger-locks and sidepulls, going up to a tree at the summit.

P1: Approach via the climb Rhodian Shores, Crack Variation, or Bihedral Arete. After the belay common to all of those, continue, tending slightly right to go up to the bottom of said headwall. Belay down and right of the bottom of the climb (#2 Friend, #1.5 Friend, & another small-med Friend or #3 Camalot.)

P2: Head up the crack on the headwall placing a 2.5"-3" cam at the start, and possibly a medium nut overhead before pulling past some insecure moves (5.11) to get into the pod. The VERY tall might not find this as hard. A #1 cam goes in the center of the top of the pod. Place a very small cam, ballnut or small nut overhead and exit the pod on the right and continue up to a not-quite "thank god" hold. (5.11) and then place tiny cams and continue upward past a series of thin locks and sidepulls with marginal feet (crux) to reach the lower-angle finish.

Protection

You need the appropriate rack for the approach pitches, then something for the belay (cams 1"-2"). For the route, take a 2.5"-3" cam for the start and then a double set of cams from the smallest you have to .5" plus two 1" cams and a few nuts from #3 BD-#8 BD. The tree up top has an anchor that needs to be beefed up. Please consider adding a rapid link.

Photos

Lon Black  
 
Of course...another line that Dan freed. This is SUCH a good line. Damn. Is it ok to say damn on here? Damn, that was awesome. If you're thinking about going for it or not, do it. May 26, 2009
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Hard tips crack route that is more overhung than it looks. Powerful moves off of and to fingerlock pods through interesting ground. Used a full rack of Aliens and C3s. Some small nuts are good too. Place small gear up hig before pulling out of the box and go for it!

Best route I've climbed in this area. Mar 1, 2008