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Routes in The Bihedral (Upper Tier)

A Fly in the Ointment T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
AHR S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Acid Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Acid Rock T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bihedral T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bihedral Arete T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blood Diamond S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Case of the Fags T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Crack Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Dan's Line S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daydreaming T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Diamonds and Rust S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dihedral Variation T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Edge of Reality S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
Fat Tuesday T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Flags of Our Fathers T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flesh Eating Flies S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Group Therapy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hesitantly Decisive T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Heterohedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
High Hard One S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hold The Line S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
It's Time For Change T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Just Putin Around T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Left-Handed Tool T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Night Moves T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Oh Boy T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pariah S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Puff Daddy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rhodian Shores S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rhodian, Naturally T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Sands of Iwo Jima S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sun Spot T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thumb Tack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tool King T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trick or Treat T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Where's Ray? S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 50 ft Fixed Hardware (8)
FA: Bob D'Antonio & Greg Hand, 10/8/2007
Page Views: 3,355 total · 26/month
Shared By: Greg Hand on Oct 8, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Exquisite position and movement. You will encounter laybacks, smears, crimps, palming, dynos, backsteps, flags, and an overhang. Quite a few moves packed into a short pitch 200 feet above the ground. Clip the first bolt by climbing near the anchors and reaching right. Then start climbing below the first bolt. This is so you do not fall directly onto the belay. There is one rest below the overhang.

Location [Suggest Change]

Protection [Suggest Change]

6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

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Four star climbing, but 50' is a very generous estimate of its length. Crux is at the 3rd bolt, though there is not a single gimme move; its continuousness reminded me of High Test at Sport Park. The grade seemed tough for an onsight, but not too bad for a redpoint. Oct 13, 2007
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Great route. The setting is awesome to start from the top of Bihedral Arete. Tough liebacking moves and hidden holds make it tough to onsight. Sweet route well worth doing.

CL Mar 1, 2008
Dave Pilot
Boulder, CO
  5.11d
Dave Pilot   Boulder, CO
  5.11d
Beautiful! Exposed! Sequential. Hard. Wish it was twice as long. Do it! May 15, 2008
proto
Falmouth (MA)
  5.11d
proto   Falmouth (MA)
  5.11d
Very nice even if it is also very short.
I agree, not an easy one to onsight although there is no very hard move. Oct 6, 2009
Kurt Ross
Boulder, colorado
Kurt Ross   Boulder, colorado
Very interesting movement. It's tougher than it looks...especially when it's raining. Oct 29, 2009
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11d
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11d
This route is a whole lot of good for 35 feet of climbing!
It's all there, but it's got to be hard to onsight.... I popped off of a heel hook while clipping bolt #4 and fell almost to the belay. It was/is a pretty safe, clean fall from anywhere on the route once the first bolt is clipped, even with slack pulled.

Nice work on finding an improbable line that adds value to the wall.

I chatted with Greg about this one briefly. Which lead both of us to wonder.... Has ANYONE onsighted this thing yet? Jun 9, 2010
Pinklebear  
 
I onsighted it on my second try after hanging the first time! Jun 9, 2010
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
 
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
 
So, if all these 5.12 climbers are failing to on-sight it, should the rating be raised?? I guess Bob & I originally rated it 5.11c/d, and everyone else has rated it higher. If we had rated it 5.12, would everyone concur? Jun 9, 2010
Pinklebear  
 
I think 11+ is fair - it's just a tricky, technical one. And as we all know, 11+ is usually harder than most 5.12a's anyway.... Jun 10, 2010
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11d
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11d
For what it's worth, I don't consider myself a 5.12 climber for on-sight because it's not a rule of thumb for me. More like 11+... on a good day.
After surveying friends about this one lately, and hearing of friend's and friend's of friends attempts, I came up with one "nearly." Mark Gay beta-flashed it after watching Jon Sargeant on it (who also did not on-sight).
I think 11d is fair, but it's just going to be a booger to on-sight. If pre inspected or "sprayed" down fully before giving it a go, it would not be so bad. That's why I personally gave it 11d. It's all there, but it is a booger to read right out of the gate.
If you give it 5.12, then what's going to happen is people will do a few laps, read point and downgrade it. Perhaps you can safely rate this thing when we can get all climbers to agree if grades are redpoint or on-sight oriented?!?!? Jun 10, 2010
Glen Charnoski
Boulder, CO
 
Glen Charnoski   Boulder, CO
 
Yes, quite harder than it looks! Wasn't sure whether to layback or just krank upward. Couldn't onsight it. Felt like a 12 compared to other 11d's I tried. Sep 28, 2011
justin hausmann
Fort collins
justin hausmann   Fort collins
11d felt appropriate. Tough to onsight (didn't) but with beta not so bad. Nov 22, 2012
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.11d
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  5.11d
My friend Maciej onsighted this thing, but he was a solid 5.12c climber at the time. I think 11d for sure. Nov 11, 2013

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