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William Penner > Comments
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Nov 26, 2021
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I added the anchor in the early 2000s, Luke. I love doing these routes as a package warmup—great job puttin…
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Nov 13, 2020
Albuquerque Area
> Sandia Mountain…
> Juan Tabo Canyon
> Shield
> Cathedral of Western… (5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b)
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All the new Shield routes look awesome--well done!
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Jun 3, 2019
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Sean, Since it looks like your status update on the rappel approach to Shield was from mid-May, it is im…
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May 20, 2019
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Abram, the way we did this section originally was a big dyno. Not sure if others have found different beta.…
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Apr 30, 2018
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Ninjadan, That variant to Autumn Ivy is a project of mine that I am working on. I added the variation a…
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Oct 26, 2016
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That is a hard dyno to have done in the 80s, doc! The 1/4" Minus problem starts way down and left wit…
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Jan 6, 2016
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John, This is such a nice boulder with better than average rock for the foothills. BITD we called the Fo…
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Jun 14, 2015
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Best problem in the foothills.
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Apr 7, 2015
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Whatever the beta or condition of the hold leading into the crux, I am glad to see some folks getting on th…
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Apr 6, 2015
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Holy crap Mike, now nobody can try to on sight this after that beta bomb ;) I do pretty much the same seque…
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Apr 6, 2015
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The left hand sloper pinch/side pull broke that you use to dyno off for the crux? That hold barely existed…
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Nov 11, 2014
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This is that problem Eric. Super fun with an odd topout mantel. Best problem in Apache Canyon for sure.
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Sep 29, 2014
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The new trail is a significant improvement over all the other access routes. Climbing in and out of the can…
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Sep 12, 2014
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The road is open from the Albuquerque side for approaching Capulin--I drove it yesterday to get there. I…
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Aug 28, 2014
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The description for the Subdivisions provides an explanation for the red tags, as the routes aren't fully c…
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Aug 28, 2014
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My best guess is that the picture was taken from somewhere on the La Selva route on the west face of Murall…
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Mar 12, 2014
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Centrum Silver is brilliant. I keep it in the same cut-glass bowl as my hard candies for when guests come o…
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Jan 28, 2014
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This is a very lovely Dakota sandstone boulder somewhere in NM that gave the impression of a large mountain…
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Jan 28, 2014
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That looks super cool, but is almost certainly not the original summit register. The first two ascents have…
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Sep 15, 2013
Albuquerque Area
> Sandia Mountain…
> Chimney Canyon
> Clandestine Wall
> Cat Daddy (5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c)
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Awesome photo on the best pitch in the Sandias.
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Aug 26, 2013
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I was pretty unimpressed by this route. Blowing the second clip would mean serious ground fall potential…
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Aug 20, 2013
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For what it is worth Sky, we added a bolt to the second pitch of Thunderbird at the request of several folk…
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Jun 12, 2013
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Nice shot...where is that relative to the main part of the box and which side? They have closed off some of…
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May 28, 2013
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Best route on the wall. Nice job on the FA, although the first bolt is mighty high off the ground.
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Mar 19, 2013
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Sweet! Way to beat the heat and send that thing. W
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Dec 27, 2012
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David McKenzie wrote: Just a question: Why is this in the Santa Fe section of MP? It's just so much closer…
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Nov 7, 2012
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Chris, Eric and I, the FA party of Wizard of Air, give you permission to clip the bolts we placed with…
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Sep 18, 2012
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I love the semi-regular updates from Diablo about holds or sections of wall falling off and the glue and di…
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Sep 14, 2012
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Chinese burger joint... Lucky Boy Restaurant 3521 Constitution Avenue Northeast, Albuquerque, NM 87106…
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Sep 3, 2012
Albuquerque Area
> Sandia Mountain…
> La Cueva Canyon…
> Torreon
> Wizard of Air (5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a)
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Nice photo! I always wanted to go back and take some shots of that pitch. Such amazing stone and climbing.…
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Aug 28, 2012
Albuquerque Area
> Sandia Mountain…
> Pinnacle Valley
> Santa Maria
> Juan de la Cosa (5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a)
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That is a lot of salad; veganeering at its best. I can taste the lichen in the face and eyes already. The c…
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Aug 22, 2012
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Comments from anonymous posters like chufftard are a bummer and generally lead to nothing but bad blood. Ev…
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Aug 19, 2012
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Small edit--the route name is Wiretap rather than Wiretrap. Good job on the lead Matthias...the first ti…
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Apr 30, 2012
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Bill, Sounds like you just got off-route on Bitches Brew. That has happened to lots of folks. W
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Mar 7, 2012
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Ah yes Eric, I forgot about the Tat Lobster moment--we lived through it at least. Tat as part of anchors fo…
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Mar 6, 2012
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In the strictest sense I am not sure chains qualify as tat. Chain lacks the romantic quality of authentic t…
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