Wiretap

JUNE 2025: With the help of FA Dave Baltz, a bolted anchor was added, the old buttonhead protection bolt was replaced and the existing piton was inspected.

Begin on top of the boulder beneath a single piton. The piton can be clipped either by traversing in from the left or by stick-clipping from the ground. There’s also an optional small cam placement to the right of the piton.

Protection for the first 25 feet consists of small cams in horizontal cracks. Technical movement—and a very attentive belayer—will get you past the piton to a solid horizontal cam placement. Continue upward to a bolt, move through the crux, then trend up and left toward a bulge or small roof, which climbs more easily than it looks. Above, follow a flaring groove toward the roof. Step right just before reaching the roof and finish by climbing the corner to a bolted anchor. 

Don't pass up gear options on this route. The placements may be tricky and hard to spot.

Left of Cloak and Dagger. Starts on top of the rock pile under the pin in the horizontal.

Double cams to #.75 (c4), singles up to #3 (c4), nuts, optional #5 for top

A bolted anchor was added in June 2025 and a 70m rope will get you back to the ground. A large tree above the anchor can be used to lower down to the bolted anchor to set a toprope. The anchor can also be used to inspect/test the piton prior to leading the route.