Elevation: 6,024 ft
GPS: 35.805, -106.143 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 17,651 total · 100/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Mar 6, 2006
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
Access Issue: COVID-19 New Mexico State Requirements Details

Description

This area encompasses the entire right wall of the Grotto. This wall has a different characteristic than the rest up the Diablo area, many of the climbs have pockets, and the crimps are more sharp and positive. The rock is less featured as well, resulting in more technical and sometimes bigger reaches between holds.

The rock, while more monolithic than the opposite side of the canyon doesn't see as much traffic. Climb cautiously and consider helmets and belaying (and standing) out of the fall line of climbers.

The wall is West Facing so it gets morning sun and afternoon shade. In the winter it gets less shade , and gets more shade in the summer. In early April the wall begins to go into the shade around 3:30. A good tool for estimating Sun / Shade beta is is the online sunearthtool.com estimator tool

The first routes are located just as you enter the Grotto. After passing the climb "Venarete" there is a short break to the next set of climbs. The next area is known as "Winter Capacity Area" as it gets the first sun on winter days. After passing through a small corridor created by a large boulder you will come across the route "Bucktooth" another short break and the wall will curve slightly yielding the routes at the end of the Grotto area.

Getting There

On the right side of the grotto entrance.

24 Total Climbs

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Location: Grotto Right (West Side) Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Grotto Right (West Side)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Winter Warm-up
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 49
Class Act
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 17
Bong Crack (a.k.a. Surficial Scr…
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 23
Where the Wild Things Aren't
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 30
Woogie's Wild Ride
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
In the Court of the Crimson King
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 14
Trailer Park Girls
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 9
Crystal Clear Arête (a.k.a. UNA)
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 5
Dopesmoker
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 4
Where the World Ends
Trad, Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 7
Sin after Sin
Sport
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 3
Unknown aka "Box of Chocolates"
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Winter Warm-up
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Class Act
 49
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Bong Crack (a.k.a. Surficia…
 17
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Where the Wild Things Aren't
 23
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Woogie's Wild Ride
 30
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
In the Court of the Crimson…
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Trailer Park Girls
 14
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Crystal Clear Arête (a.k.a.…
 9
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Dopesmoker
 5
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Where the World Ends
 4
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad, Sport
Sin after Sin
 7
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Unknown aka "Box of Chocola…
 3
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Grotto Right (West Side) »

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