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Routes in Grotto Right (West Side)

666 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bong Crack (a.k.a. Surficial Scratch) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buck Tooth (AKA Spearhead) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Class Act S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crack Wars (aka Crack Whores) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crystal Clear Arête (a.k.a. UNA) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dopesmoker S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Happy Face (AKA Kitchen Sink) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
In the Court of the Crimson King S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rickety Rock S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ruffles Have Ridges T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sin after Sin S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tenable S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Trailer Park Girls S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tweak Fuck S,TR 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Unknown S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown aka "Box of Chocolates" S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Untenable S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Venarete S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Where the Wild Things Aren't S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Where the World Ends T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Winter Capacity S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Winter Warm-up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Woogie's Wild Ride S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Elevation: 6,024 ft
GPS: 35.805, -106.143 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 8,632 total · 57/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Mar 6, 2006
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
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Description

This area encompasses the entire right wall of the Grotto. This wall has a different characteristic than the rest up the Diablo area, many of the climbs have pockets, and the crimps are more sharp and positive. The rock is less featured as well, resulting in more technical and sometimes bigger reaches between holds.

The rock, while more monolithic than the opposite side of the canyon doesn't see as much traffic. Climb cautiously and consider helmets and belaying (and standing) out of the fall line of climbers.

The wall is West Facing so it gets morning sun and afternoon shade. In the winter it gets less shade , and gets more shade in the summer. In early April the wall begins to go into the shade around 3:30. A good tool for estimating Sun / Shade beta is is the online sunearthtool.com estimator tool

The first routes are located just as you enter the Grotto. After passing the climb "Venarete" there is a short break to the next set of climbs. The next area is known as "Winter Capacity Area" as it gets the first sun on winter days. After passing through a small corridor created by a large boulder you will come across the route "Bucktooth" another short break and the wall will curve slightly yielding the routes at the end of the Grotto area.

Getting There

On the right side of the grotto entrance.

24 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Grotto Right (West Side)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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