Elevation: 8,408 ft
GPS: 36.661, -105.983 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 163,839 total · 1,036/month
Shared By: Mark Mathis on Jul 12, 2007 with improvements by Levi Wilner and 1 other
Admins: Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Be respectful when crossing private land. Details

Description

Tres Piedras offers a selection of traditional routes on quality granite slabs, cracks, and steep faces. Spanish for "Three Rocks" Tres Piedras (obviously) consists of six major rock formations.

In addition to the taller routes, the bouldering is excellent here and it is not uncommon to see as many crashpads as ropes.

Guidebooks
The 2 guidebooks ('Taos Rock' and 'Rock Climbing: New Mexico') are both excellent and virtually identical as far as the route descriptions and photos. 'Taos Rock' (unlike RC:NM) also documents some of the bouldering.
An aging incomplete guide by Bill Johnson, John Joline, Cayce Weber and Lee Sheftel from the 70s is posted on the LA Mountaineers website here

First Ascentionist Bruce Holthouse on his Clean Green Dream Image courtesy of andrewburr.com. All rights reserved.
Bruce Holthouse climbing Clean Green Dream on the the 30th anniversary of the FA.

Getting There

The small village of Tres Piedras is at the junction of US 285 and US 64. From the intersection, go west on US 64 for 0.7 miles (past the ranger station) to an unmarked dirt road on the right. Look for the big green water tower on the ground. Go through the barbwire fence gate (and close it behind you). Follow this for 0.5 miles to the parking area (left at the "T", left at the "Y").

U.S. Forest Service Information

Guide Service - Mountain Skills climbingschoolusa.com/index…

113 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Tres Piedras

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V7 7A+
 3
Mean Green Leaner
Boulder
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 50
Dirty Diagonal
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 43
Chicken Heads
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 48
Chicken Shit
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 29
Yikes Dikes
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 58
Mama Jugs
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 67
Serpentine Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 46
Clean Green Dream
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 37
Alien
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 35
Gila Monster
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 23
Unknown (Right of Mama Jugs)
Trad, Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 14
Cowboy Bob's Chickenhead Delight
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 28
Serpent Face
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 9
Holthouse to Hell
Trad 2 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 21
Techweenie
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mean Green Leaner Tres Piedras Bo… > Fins
 3
V7 7A+ Boulder
Dirty Diagonal Mosaic Rock
 50
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Chicken Heads Mosaic Rock
 43
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Chicken Shit Mosaic Rock
 48
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Yikes Dikes S Rock
 29
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Mama Jugs Mosaic Rock
 58
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Serpentine Crack Mosaic Rock
 67
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Clean Green Dream Mosaic Rock
 46
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Alien W Rock
 37
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Gila Monster Aspen Alley
 35
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Unknown (Right of Mama Jugs) Mosaic Rock
 23
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, Sport
Cowboy Bob's Chickenhead De… Middle Rock
 14
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Serpent Face Mosaic Rock
 28
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Holthouse to Hell Mosaic Rock
 9
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Techweenie Mosaic Rock
 21
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Tres Piedras »

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