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Elevation: 8,369 ft
GPS: 36.6608, -105.98288
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Shared By: Mark Mathis on Jul 12, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown
Warning Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Seasonal Raptor Nesting. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Tres Piedras offers a selection of traditional routes on quality granite slabs, cracks, and steep faces. Spanish for "Three Rocks" Tres Piedras (obviously) consists of six major rock formations.

In addition to the taller routes, the bouldering is excellent here and it is not uncommon to see as many crashpads as ropes.

Guidebooks
The 2 guidebooks ('Taos Rock' and 'Rock Climbing: New Mexico') are both excellent and virtually identical as far as the route descriptions and photos. 'Taos Rock' (unlike RC:NM) also documents some of the bouldering.
An aging incomplete guide by Bill Johnson, John Joline, Cayce Weber and Lee Sheftel from the 70s is posted on the LA Mountaineers website here

First Ascentionist Bruce Holthouse on his Clean Green Dream Image courtesy of andrewburr.com. All rights reserved.
Bruce Holthouse climbing Clean Green Dream on the the 30th anniversary of the FA.

Getting There Suggest change

The small village of Tres Piedras is at the junction of US 285 and US 64. From the intersection, go west on US 64 for 0.7 miles (past the ranger station) to an unmarked dirt road on the right. Look for the big green water tower on the ground. Go through the barbwire fence gate (and close it behind you). Follow this for 0.5 miles to the parking area (left at the "T", left at the "Y").

U.S. Forest Service Information

Guide Service - Mountain Skills climbingschoolusa.com/index…

136 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Tres Piedras

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 71
Dirty Diagonal
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 56
Chicken Heads
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 59
Chicken Shit
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 35
Yikes Dikes
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 74
Mama Jugs
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 93
Serpentine Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 56
Clean Green Dream
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 47
Alien
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 39
Gila Monster
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 15
Cowboy Bob's Chickenhead Delight
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 33
Serpent Face
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 9
Holthouse to Hell
Trad 2 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 28
Techweenie
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
 10
Techtonics
Trad, Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
 7
To Bolt on Lead or Not to Bolt (…
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Dirty Diagonal Mosaic Rock
 71
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Chicken Heads Mosaic Rock
 56
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Chicken Shit Mosaic Rock
 59
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Yikes Dikes S Rock
 35
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Mama Jugs Mosaic Rock
 74
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Serpentine Crack Mosaic Rock
 93
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Clean Green Dream Mosaic Rock
 56
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Alien W Rock
 47
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Gila Monster Aspen Alley
 39
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Cowboy Bob's Chickenhead De… Middle Rock
 15
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Serpent Face Mosaic Rock
 33
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Holthouse to Hell Mosaic Rock
 9
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Techweenie Mosaic Rock
 28
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Techtonics Mosaic Rock
 10
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R Trad, Sport
To Bolt on Lead or Not to B… Mosaic Rock
 7
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad
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