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Routes in Grotto Right (West Side)

666 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bong Crack (a.k.a. Surficial Scratch) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buck Tooth (AKA Spearhead) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Class Act S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Crack Wars (aka Crack Whores) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crystal Clear ArĂȘte (a.k.a. UNA) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dopesmoker S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Happy Face (AKA Kitchen Sink) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
In the Court of the Crimson King S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rickety Rock S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ruffles Have Ridges T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sin after Sin S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tenable S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trailer Park Girls S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tweak Fuck S,TR 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Unknown S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown aka "Box of Chocolates" S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Untenable S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Venarete S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Where the Wild Things Aren't S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Where the World Ends T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Winter Capacity S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Winter Warm-up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Woogie's Wild Ride S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Mark Thomas, Tom Wezwick, Karl Kiser, and Chris Kessler
Page Views: 931 total, 7/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Nov 6, 2006
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Starts out with slabby face moves past 3 bolts to a nice rest. From here figure out how to clip the 4th bolt on runout but easy ground. Traverse left past 3 more spaced bolts to the crux bulge, with tightly spaced bolts. Rest up for the final awkward overhang and pass one more bolt to the anchor. Solid at the grade, and a wild ride for a 5.11.

Edit 4/6/15 Re-climbed this again, and as mentioned below a foothold has broken at the crux, making the moves significantly harder and quite reach intensive. A right hand crimp may have broken off as well. I'm guessing it's at least 11d, and maybe a bit harder.

Location

Right Side of the Grotto Entrance. Just to the right of Class Act and Bong Crack.

Protection

11 Bolts to Anchors

Photos

William Penner
The 505
William Penner   The 505
I love the semi-regular updates from Diablo about holds or sections of wall falling off and the glue and dirt left behind. Quality and hilarious. Sep 18, 2012
Jason Young
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11d
Jason Young   Los Alamos, NM
  5.11d
I got on this route last Saturday. The movement throughout was excellent, but the crux seems to have changed a bit. The bit of rock marked with 'Xs' in the photo (see link below) is gone. It was cleary glued on at some point as there is still a large swath of glue left on the rock. There was also quite a bit of dirt on the remnants of the hold which is now just an extension of the "ledge" feature below the crux. The dirt was obviously left over from when the hold broke, so it might have been fairly recent. I cleaned it off as it was rather annoying.

Although it is not too hard to get into position for the crux, it seems that the missing feature would have been a pretty key foothold for getting through this portion of the climb. This presumably awesome route has now been relegated to the status of a "one-move wonder". The route still goes, but I think it's a bit harder than 5.11b.

mountainproject.com/images/… Sep 17, 2012
Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11b
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
  5.11b
I don't think a 50m rope would work for this route, as I was pretty close to the ends of my 60m when I lowered off. Mar 28, 2010
Amy Jordan
  5.11c
Amy Jordan  
  5.11c
A fun climb and airy, exhilarating lead. Really neat route. Only the big ledge in the middle keeps it from being 4 stars, in my opinion, but all the climbing on it is fantastic. May 7, 2009
This is correct, Mark Thomas climbed the FA. Apr 1, 2008
Rick Bradshaw
Los Alamos, NM
Rick Bradshaw   Los Alamos, NM
This route was established by some combination of Mark Thomas, Tom Wezwick, Karl Kiser, and Chris Kessler. I believe Mark was the driving force and is credited with the FA. Mar 8, 2008