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Routes in South Rock

Agent Orange T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Airy Scary T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Alias The Martian T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eagle's Nest T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Eagle's Nest (original) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rainy Daze S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Surface Tension T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Unknown (South Face Left) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown (South Face Middle) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (South Face Right) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Yikes Dikes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zig Zag Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Description

Several quality routes of "moderate" difficulty (5.8 to 5.11-) ascend this prominent formation.
Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Getting There

South Rock is the first rock encountered walking north from the parking area.

Descent

You can rappel down either the north or the south side rappels with a single 60m rope (~28m rappel for either way).
A nasty walkoff/downclimb exists on the east end of the rock (don't do it).

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at South Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos

David Baltz
Albuquerque, New Mexico
David Baltz   Albuquerque, New Mexico
Nest appears to be home now to a large turkey vulture who waddled out on the ledge to check my belay out at the top of the middle unknown route. Appearing bored, he waddled back into his hole. Aug 14, 2017
Active peregrine falcon nest very close to shared anchors for unknown South Face Middle and South Face Right routes. Birds got very agitated today when a climber topped out. Please avoid these routes through the nesting season (into August). May 17, 2014
Bill Lawry
New Mexico
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
Can use the easy-to-find anchors at the top of Surface Tension to rap off the NW end of South Rock into a slot / gully with a HUGE chockstone. A 70 meter rope can get you just downhill of the chockstone. The description of Surface Tension reports that a 60 meter will just make it being careful first to find the center of the rope - watch your ends! - probably lands you uphill of the HUGE chockstone after which it appears you can tunnel around the chockstone if that's the direction you are heading. Aug 15, 2011

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