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Routes in Upper Fat City Drainage

1/4" Minus V8 7B
Amputation V0 4
Brachiation V0 4
Dham Uht V6-7 7A+
Free Cap'n V5-6 6C+
Knobby, The V0 4
Roybal's Wall V0 4
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: Tom Ellis
Page Views: 2,255 total, 23/month
Shared By: thomas ellis on Oct 12, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Low start just right of arete on double gaston crimps, traverse right into good holds and then dead point or dyno to crimp a foot below lip. Super good climbing on great rock. One of the best I have found in the Sandias for the grade.

Location

Right of Free Cap'n

Protection

pads

Photos

Mark Dalen
Albuquerque, NM
Mark Dalen   Albuquerque, NM
Will & Owen - sounds incredible, I know ... of course I can't vouch for the sit start, that must have come later ... still I'm inclined to believe Paul's story if only on principle ... so much was done back then that went unrecorded ... I did what I could to keep up with my newsletter, but that ended when I left ABQ in 79 ... not just here but over in Three Gun Springs a group was active that included Paul & Dave, Mike Head & Dirk VanWinkle ... I would be much surprised if half the major lines above the parking lot & at the trailside farther up - including the Knob Highball - were not sent around this time.... Oct 30, 2016
William Penner
The 505
 
William Penner   The 505
 
That is a hard dyno to have done in the 80s, doc!
The 1/4" Minus problem starts way down and left with a hard sit start, which in no way diminishes the accomplishment of Lungin' Dave having stuck a hard move that shuts me down a bunch.

Thanks for sharing,

William Oct 26, 2016
Owen Summerscales
Los Alamos, NM
Owen Summerscales   Los Alamos, NM
If Jim Holloway bouldered V12 in 1975 then I can believe this! Still, that's pretty strong work... Oct 26, 2016
Mark Dalen
Albuquerque, NM
Mark Dalen   Albuquerque, NM
Paul Horak just reported this face was first done by a guy called 'Lunging Dave' out of Colorado ... according to Paul, he & Dave Baltz worked on it for months, then one day he showed it to Lunging Dave, who promptly sent it on sight ... this would have been in the mid 80s ... Oct 25, 2016