Elevation: 8,388 ft
GPS: 35.815, -106.532 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 182,430 total · 1,120/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Jul 30, 2006
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

Description

Beautiful area set in the meadows in the Jemez mountains, Las Conchas is one of the more popular summer sport climbing areas within 2 hrs of ABQ. Because of the elevation, summer days are often cool enough to be pleasant. Many of the crags in the area are situated along the East Fork of the Jemez River, making the climbing environment that much more enjoyable.
That said, Las Conchas is a year-round climbing destination. The wind-sheltered, south-facing walls of Easy Bake Alcove, Hidden Tower, Retirement Wall and The Subdivisions are ideal in the heart of winter given a sunny, calm day.

Getting There

From Albuquerque, take I-25 North to Bernalillo and exit at highway 550 (exit #242, DON'T miss this exit, the next exit does not come for many miles). Follow 550 to San Ysidro and head North on state road 4 for about 36 miles. You will drive past picturesque Jemez Springs, Battleship Rock, the small community of La Cueva, just beyond Las Conchas camping area to the second pull out by a well-traveled trail and meadow on your left. From Los Alamos or Santa Fe (or from the north), it is faster to reach the same area by taking NM-4 into the Jemez near Bandelier NP, passing the Valle Grande meadow (watch for elk) and reaching the same meadow.

The obvious cliff seen through the meadow on the north side of the road is Cattle Call Wall Area. Most of the other cliffs are downstream, following a trail that begins on the west side of the creek.

Resources

There has been a lot of route development at the Las Conchas crags since 2007 making the print resources pretty out-dated. The MountainProject database is the best source of information but these older books do cover Las Conchas to some degree:

*'Jemez Rock' is the most complete guide to the area
*'Rock Climbing: New Mexico also covers the area
*Samet & Jett's out-of-print Sport Climbing New Mexico guide can be found in pdf format on the LA Mountaineers site. It's older, so some newer climbs are missing.
*Topos for Cattle Call Wall and Gateway Rock (the most popular cliffs closest to the parking) are posted on the LA Mountaineers website here
*Drone video showing a lot of Las Conchas, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8uBXrP9DXs0 

151 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Las Conchas

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 80
Garden Wall
Trad, Sport, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 63
Portal
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 87
Crucible
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 94
Bovine Inspiration
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 64
Eat Mor Chikin
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 43
Crucial Taunt
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 75
Hollywood Tim
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 106
Drive By Shooting
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 63
We Bulls Wobble
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 112
Forrest
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 81
Cow Pies For Breakfast
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 57
Woof Toof Noof Roof
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 90
Pumping Huecos
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 72
Road Rage
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 27
Death Grip
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Garden Wall Gateway Rock
 80
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Sport, TR
Portal Gateway Rock
 63
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Crucible Cattle Call Wall Area
 87
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Bovine Inspiration Cattle Call Wall Area
 94
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Eat Mor Chikin Cattle Call Wall Area
 64
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Crucial Taunt Easy Bake Alcove
 43
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Hollywood Tim Sponge
 75
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Drive By Shooting Gateway Rock
 106
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
We Bulls Wobble Cattle Call Wall Area
 63
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Forrest Gateway Rock
 112
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Cow Pies For Breakfast Cattle Call Wall Area
 81
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Woof Toof Noof Roof Gateway Rock
 57
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Pumping Huecos Sponge
 90
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Road Rage Gateway Rock
 72
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Death Grip Love Shack Area
 27
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
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