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Routes in Leaning Tower

Blinded by the Light S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Craggy Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lichen Attack Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mainliner S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Original Route (aka Mean Leaner) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sausage Candles S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Second Thought S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tiny Propeller S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tupelo Chain Sex S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Will of the Wasp S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Jean DeLataillade, 1995
Page Views: 3,412 total, 30/month
Shared By: Jean on Jul 30, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

A beautiful line left of the main crack that splits the tower (Mean Leaner). Technical climb with face and a bit of crack climbing, mostly at the top.

Location

15 feet left of Mean Leaner.

Protection

Mostly bolted, crack gear needed at the top (tcu's and camelots).

Photos

LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
Jarred, when Cody first sent it on the bolts he did so placing the draws by chance since it was his first attempt of the day. Obviously on 4-12-12 when he did it on gear he was placing the gear on lead as well. Apr 15, 2012
Jarred Cleerdin
  5.14
Jarred Cleerdin  
  5.14
Hey Lee, Did he pink point it or red point it? Mar 27, 2012
It could be his hair. It might make him lighter. Sep 5, 2011
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
Repeated by Cody Roth, Summer 2011. Second hand quote, "5.14a, though I've done 5.14b's that are easier". Sep 4, 2011
Owen Summerscales
Los Alamos, NM
Owen Summerscales   Los Alamos, NM
A video I made of fifth ascent by Eric Bissell. March 2016.


vimeo.com/171223186 Jun 18, 2016
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
Fat Send Cody!!!! Love to see NM making national news... especially the part that was apart of the Republic of Texas! Jun 8, 2012
Jean
 
Jean  
 
Cody just send Mainliner - again - on gear. He also broke a hold in the upper crux, bumping the grade up a bit. Apr 15, 2012
Jean
 
Jean  
 
I'm pretty sure Cody did this in the spring, around mid May. Good effort either way. Oct 24, 2011
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
I added hangers and chain to the studs at the anchor. This climb is amazing and hard. Very impressed that Cody did it in the summer time. This climb seems to get sun from first thing in the morning until last thing in the evening. Oct 24, 2011