PRINT: Rock Climbing in Las Conchas, Jemez Mountains and Jemez Valley

Las Conchas

New Mexico > Jemez Mountains & Jem…

Description

Beautiful area set in the meadows in the Jemez mountains, Las Conchas is one of the more popular summer sport climbing areas within 2 hrs of ABQ. Because of the elevation, summer days are often cool enough to be pleasant. Many of the crags in the area are situated along the East Fork of the Jemez River, making the climbing environment that much more enjoyable.
That said, Las Conchas is a year-round climbing destination. The wind-sheltered, south-facing walls of (L) Easy Bake Alcove, (K) Hidden Tower, (N) Retirement Wall and (O) The Subdivisions are ideal in the heart of winter given a sunny, calm day.

Getting There

From Albuquerque, take I-25 North to Bernalillo and exit at highway 550 (exit #242, DON'T miss this exit, the next exit does not come for many miles). Follow 550 to San Ysidro and head North on state road 4 for about 36 miles. You will drive past picturesque Jemez Springs, Battleship Rock, the small community of La Cueva, just beyond Las Conchas camping area to the second pull out by a well-traveled trail and meadow on your left. From Los Alamos or Santa Fe (or from the north), it is faster to reach the same area by taking NM-4 into the Jemez near Bandelier NP, passing the Valle Grande meadow (watch for elk) and reaching the same meadow.

The obvious cliff seen through the meadow on the north side of the road is (A) Cattle Call Wall Area. Most of the other cliffs are downstream, following a trail that begins on the west side of the creek. The Las Conchas sectors here on Mountain Project are listed alphabetically, A through N, from closest to the highway to the furthest from the highway.

Resources

There has been a lot of route development at the Las Conchas crags since 2007 making the print resources pretty out-dated. The MountainProject database is the best source of information but these older books do cover Las Conchas to some degree:

*'Jemez Rock' is the most complete guide to the area
*'Rock Climbing: New Mexico also covers the area
*Samet & Jett's out-of-print Sport Climbing New Mexico guide can be found in pdf format on the LA Mountaineers site. It's older, so some newer climbs are missing.
*Topos for Cattle Call Wall and Gateway Rock (the most popular cliffs closest to the parking) are posted on the LA Mountaineers website here
*Drone video showing a lot of Las Conchas, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8uBXrP9DXs0

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Eric Bissell on Mainliner

A ten-minute hike from the highway and one is rewarded with views like this. May 2014.

My diary from the first route ever completed at Las Conchas.

Richard Boyle starting up Death Grip

Graham just past the crux on General Mayhem, Nikki on Drive By Shooting and Tyler climbing Forrest

Gateway Rock near the Las Conchas Trailhead

Julian climbing Forrest

Graham at the crux on General Mayhem

Looking south across highway 4 at the burned area from the Las Conchas Fire of late June 2011.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM

Because of the multi-use nature of this area, there's a huge problem with human waste disposal in the area. It's super pitiful to hike behind any of the climbing walls only to find huge piles of unburied dookers complete with toilet paper dressing.

This past weekend there was a big load sitting at the base of Hollywood Tim that was no doubt put in place by a non-climber. For a long while I've questioned why there isn't a porta-potty at the main parking area for Las Conchas. Sure, there's a permanent toilet just up the road towards the Caldera but people aren't likely to make the short walk or drive up there to take care of business.

This morning I attempted to contact the Jemez Ranger District fs.fed.us/r3/sfe/districts/… of the Santa Fe National Forest at 575-829-3535 but got no answer. When I called the main SFNF office in Santa Fe they told me I'd have to speak with the Jemez Ranger district folks about this. If you get a chance to call the Jemez Ranger district and politely suggest a porta-potty, please do. I've never looked into how much it would cost to have a porta-potty setup somewhere and dumped regularly but I'd be happy to donate funds to the cause if it wasn't terribly expensive. Aug 13, 2008

Mike Dechter

Hello all,

The Jemez Ranger District of the Santa Fe National Forest is considering camping restrictions in the East Fork Jemez Wild and Scenic River Corridor. This includes the area between Las Conchas and Battleship Rock. There were a couple public meetings about this last year to help the Forest Service design a proposal... and now that proposal is out and the Forest Service is looking for comments on it from users like YOU.

I have a scoping letter with all of the details on the proposed action, which I can send via post or e-mail. If interested, please e-mail me with your information: mdechter@fs.fed.us. Thanks! Mar 3, 2010

Willie Mitchel

I read the mention of packing out waste and thought id share a product I use. Its called a Biffy Bag and it is far superior to the Wag Bag and Reststop systems. It does not require a bucket or commode and comes with everything you need in a little package. It has a triple sealed puncture proof containment bag which prevents all odor and chance of leaking. WONDERFUL product I recommend to everyone. The rammifications of human waste are seriously effecting these beautiful areas we love so much so I ask everyone to address this matter more seriously. Mar 18, 2010

Code Dog 91
Edgewood, NM

A week ago I was searching for Upper East Fork and found that two trailheads were closed and a fine would be given. Any updates on opening them would be great thanks. Sep 16, 2011

Bill M
Fort Collins, CO

Noticed two new routes today on Gateway Rock, the one on the far right was excellent, what's the grade on these? Oct 16, 2011

Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM

Bill Matlin wrote:Noticed two new routes today on Gateway Rock, the one on the far right was excellent, what's the grade on these?

The far right route is Forrest, a former gear route that was recently retro-bolted. The other newer, short route is Portal 5.7. I don't know who put up the routes but I think it was the same persons based on the identical hardware. Oct 16, 2011

Owen S

Anyone know about the bouldering here? There's some very nice problems, chalked and clearly have been climbed many times, just wondering about if theyve been named yet or not?

The rock's a little coarse, but the overhangs make for some superb boulders. Apr 21, 2012

Curt Dvonch

I left a rope in a blue rope bag at gateway crag yesterday (Saturday 4/21) and I checked this morning but it wasn't there. If you found the rope or if you know who did, please let me know. Thanks! Apr 22, 2012

John M Sullivan
Austin,TX

I'll be in the area in a couple days, and figured I'd get a little information about the crag to get ready:
1) How many quickdraws do I need for the climbs?
2) Top rope friendly?
3) I'll be with some beginning climbers; what's a good wall to take them to?

Thanks a lot! Aug 9, 2013

Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM

Due to the Thompson Ridge fire, most of the Las Conchas area is closed until Oct. 1, 2013. The (A) Cattle Call Wall Area is apparently open but that's it. For routes here, 10 quickdraws is more than enough and some routes can be set as TRs if you bring static line to tie off from trees at the top--the bolt anchors aren't accessible from the top. Aug 9, 2013

Owen S

Cattle call is on private land, so the FS dont have anything to say about it. In fact, the flagging makes it very clear where the private/FS land boundary is. Aug 11, 2013

John M Sullivan
Austin,TX

Thanks for the info! I'll be pretty close, so it wont be a big deal if it's closed. I'll check out area 37. Since Cattle Call is on private land, camping there probably isn't an option? Aug 11, 2013

Owen S

No camping at las conchas right now. Without the restrictions, you'd be normally allowed to camp about a mile downstream, but not currently. Camping is open in jemez springs, unless you want undeveloped spots. Aug 12, 2013

Crack Slabbath
Chattanooga

will be here in the next few days, what's the most recent word of camping in Las Conchas? May 23, 2014

Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM

Chet Butterworth wrote:will be here in the next few days, what's the most recent word of camping in Las Conchas?

A couple of years ago (at least) the forest service closed all camping along the river at Las Conchas in the first 1.6 miles (or so, maybe further) from the highway. So effectively no camping. But there are forest service campgrounds not too far away. Look for Redondo Campground or San Antonio Campgrounds to the west a number of miles. May 24, 2014

Nathan Kofahl
Albuquerque, NM

Jemez falls campground is a good place to stay and it isn't very far away. Jul 28, 2014

Chelly Young
Los Alamos, NM

{Las Conchas/Jemez Valley Area/NM}

Hi there--

I have been thinking of how valuable it would be to have practice anchors at the Cattle Call Wall area (specifically off to the side of Johnny Can't Lead).
Years ago when learning to clean, it was extremely helpful for me to be able to use the practice anchors in the School Room Area at Maple Canyon. Just a few inches off the ground allowed me to simulate cleaning while another pair of eyes could watch and critique my process.
Recently, I'm finding myself watching instructors teach others how to clean using simulated anchors. I think it would be very beneficial to have real chain anchors in a position that simulates the climbing experience.
I have someone willing to install them and would like to provide them as a service to the climbing community.
Looking for feedback; do you think this would be valuable?

Chelly :) Apr 23, 2016

Nathan Kofahl
Albuquerque, NM

3d Photosphere I took near gateway rock and uploaded to Google Maps. My son is climbing near the top of Garden Wall in this picture

goo.gl/maps/WHUUDST81Qr Jun 6, 2016

Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM

George Perkins wrote:There are ~4 sport climbs way farther down, in the East Fork Box, for those into a bit more exploration and a beautiful hike. I think they are in the 5.11 to 5.12 ranges-- I've heard a bit of information. From my understanding, the FAs (Heath Bailey and Shibli Fazal?) have largely moved on from route development in the area, so I highly doubt there's an issue with me mentioning them, but let me know if there is and I'll delete this. It's possible that it's quicker to come in from the west, rather than from Las Conchas; in any case expect you may get wet feet. There's potential for more, but it's a longer hike and there's no singular good destination wall like "Monster Wall" or "Retirement Wall" in there, so even if you bolt it, it will see few visits.

The routes down that way are not a secret, just kinda random and seldom climbed. The routes are shady, especially those on the south side of the river, and belays are often right on the edge of the stream so it's cool summer spot. It does get unusually humid in there in the summer, though.
The best approach is via trail 137 from the picnic area where 137 crosses highway 4. It's a decent hump in there, probably about 30 minutes, with some off-trail descending from trail 137 down to the stream at an arbitrary spot.

The easiest sport route is a really fun, but all-too-short, arête that overhangs over the river on the river's north side called "Reflection Eternal" (5.11a) done by Heath Bailey in summer 2014:

Heath on the FA of Reflection Eternal (5.11a), Lower East Fork, Jemez, NM

The 5.12c/d route, "PBR Street Gang" also established by Heath Bailey in the summer of 2014.

Heath nearing the top of "PBR Street Gang" (5.12+), LEF south side of river

Nat cruxin' on "PBR Street Gang" (5.12+), LEF

I've climbed one other 5.12-, not sure the name, also done by Heath on the north side of the river:

Nat on a Unnamed 5.12-, north side of the river at LEF. Bouldery, big lock-off crux down low.

There are two more harder routes, 5.13- or so, next to each other near PBR. Heath also did a route purely on gear on the river's south side that went up cracks to a groove at the narrowest spot in the canyon where it looks like one could jump from one side of the canyon to the other. This is further downstream from the sport routes and just upstream from the spot that used to be super popular for cliff jumping but filled in with flood debris post-Las Conchas fire in 2011.

I think Josh Smith did a couple of gear routes in the vicinity too. Pretty cool area to explore. Aug 7, 2016

Briana Collier
Santa Fe

Is the Cattle Call Wall still open since it is on private property? Jun 15, 2018

Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)

Early development history: The first climb ever done at Las Conchas was the big crack on the Leaning Tower, led on aid by Cam Burns (early 1989 and belayed by Mike Schillaci). It had been attempted a few years earlier by Los Alamos high school teacher Chris Foster. He smacked a bunch of pins in the crack at mid-height and lowered off (I still have those pins which are truly weird pitons! BTW, Chris was a really cool guy.) The second route that went up was Forrest, led on natural (trad gear) by Cam Burns and with Schillaci belaying. It was later bolted up. The next next route after that was Tasty Freeze, a mostly natural gear route. After that, the first sport route went up: Hollywood Tim. It was named for Tim Rutherford, a colorful character in the Los Alamos climbing scene in the late 1980s, even though he didn't climb. That was the first sport route in the "canyon." Donkey Show, Captain America, Wet Willies, Tupelo Chain Sex (which I till need to fix), and Something Big and Lovely all followed soon thereafter. This was all in 1989, when the only climbers visiting the canyon were Burns, Schillaci, Fehlau, and Nordlander. In 1990, folks like Bob D'Antonio and Mike McGill, talented easterners came and added their routes. Mike Baker and Leslie Henderson also added a few climbs. After that, things got busy. And I left the area and the rest is a grid bolting hedonistic fest of fun.....

It’s funny to think the first routes up there weren’t even sport climbs. Jul 15, 2020

Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM

Christian Prellwitz wrote:I'm curious if anyone knows the current conditions for this area, specifically the Hidden Tower area (and climbs like 'Plague Of Pestilence'). Is the area snow free? Will the climbs be dry? I know there's some stormy weather in the forecast for the week, but I'm just curious about what the area generally is like at this time of year. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

The climbs have been dry and warm. If this storm tomorrow drops 6" to 8", but it's sunny Thursday/Friday, the climbs will be dry by the weekend. The area is generally quite nice throughout the winter and, in fact, best in winter in the sun or in the evening shade in spring/summer/fall. Right now the trail in is intermittent mud/snow/ice but nothing gnarly. The short little approach trail up to the Hidden Tower wall can get a bit icy or muddy slop but if you have light-duty traction (or decent skills on low-consequence ice), it's not a problem. Mar 23, 2021

Usux Atclimbing

Somethings to consider when climbing here. We are NOT at a gym so act like it.
Dogs must be on leash. It is against the law to have your dog off leash in this NF area. And please keep you dog from barking at every passerby. I witnessed some complete BS this weekend with a leash-less "climbers" dog mess with every hiker, kid(knocked one down) and folks with dogs walking by. I finally told the woman to put her dog on a leash. Speak up we are Stewart's of the land! Also put your kids on a leash too, chalk graffiti is graffiti and also illegal.Stop putting chalk drawn X on things please!! If you don't already climb with colored chalk maybe you should look into it!! Make your own or buy from a few company's doing it.
We share this wonderful area with not only climbers but hikers, anglers, photographer's, people wanting to picnic in the meadows, ect. I will be calling NF and seeing if rangers. Or local L.E. will come out and patrol this area more on the weekends. Sheeew the weekends are a
F-ing ZOO! Jun 7, 2021