Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Love Shack Area

Agent Orange S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Captain America S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Death Grip S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Duck and Cover S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Happy Death Coyote S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Happy Entrails S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
In Your Face Space Coyote S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Love Handles S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Other Woman, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Second Hand Emotion S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wading Game S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Chris Chestnut
Page Views: 3,295 total · 29/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Sep 20, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


22 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A fun powerful route on very unique stone. A bouldery pre-clipped start leads to slopers and pinches. Don't botch the start as even with the first bolt pre-clipped if you fall off too early it is still possible to end up in the stream. Start out on good holds to pull the overhang and get up to the first bolt. OK crimps and a good pocket lead to a pinch and a tricky move getting to the clipping holds for the second bolt. Grab a quick shake here and move up on steeper ground through good pinches and make a hard move to a good undercling and the third bolt. Rest here if possible and pull the final tricky moves pulling over the final bulge to a nice rest before the final moves to the anchors.

Location

Next route to the right of Happy Entrails.

Protection

3 bolts to anchors with fixed biners. Stickclip recommended, there is currently a stick at the base as well.

Photos

Jason,
I am not sure of the best way to set it up without actually being at the route, but there must be a way to either add a belay bolt or a low bolt to allow the leader to whip between one and two without getting cut in half by the rope. If you could get the belayers end of the rope out of the way the falls would be clean. Its a great route, but the bolting takes away from the flow as you fight around the rope then get cut in half by it if you fall between one and two. You are a local and probably have a better sense of it than I do as I only try the route once every six months or so, but would love to see it upgraded. Dec 2, 2014
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
I could see a belay/rope management bolt being quite useful. It is hard to figure a great place to put where the belayer would still be out of the water. That's a challenge with the first bolt on all the routes on this wall...keeping it up and away from the water enough so as to not have the belayer standing in the drink. Also, because of the way the climber comes out of the cave and would cross over/under a new first bolt, the placement is another challenge.

Ironically, while just recently working a new project of mine left of Happy Entrails, I noticed an older belay bolt for Happy Entrails in the small cave where the climber starts. I presume this is used by the belayer also standing in the small cave. That tactic could also be used in the small cave at the start of Death Grip but the belayer would not be able to see the climber after the first bolt and might get yanked into the roof of the cave. :) Dec 1, 2014
Anyone think this route would benefit from a belay bolt low and right? Would that work with the water? I have seen many get tangled up in the rope or get nearly cut in half as they fall back on to it, especially heading to the second clip. Great climbing, but strange bolting. Dec 1, 2014
Jarred Cleerdin
  5.12d
Jarred Cleerdin  
  5.12d
youtu.be/pCj2_1aTe-Q Jul 23, 2011