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Routes in The Sponge

Freeloader Friday S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Hollywood Tim S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hueco Pareidolia S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mad Dogs and Englishmen S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Napoleon's Angst S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pumping Harry S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pumping Huecos S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sal's Neurosis S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sponge Problem, The V8 7B
Type: Sport, 50 ft Fixed Hardware (1)
FA: Bob D'Antonio & Mike McGill
Page Views: 4,667 total, 34/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Sep 26, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Head up a slab to a nice ledge and rest before the steep climbing above. Pull the first steep overhang on fantastic huecos and jugs. Get a rest and pull the final overhanging to the anchors.

Location

The obvious and heavily chalked line in the middle of the crag. Just to the right of a large roof 7 feet off the ground.

Protection

7 Bolts to Anchors
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10d
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.10d
George Perkins wrote:This climb has 7 bolts now, as someone anonymously added one (last fall?) below what was formerly the 1st bolt. (Now you won't get scared on the 5.7 climbing in the first 20'.)
I've updated the route description with the new bolt count. Mar 19, 2017
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10d
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.10d
Hey Jesse, I moved the anchors down and placed a new fifth bolt a few years ago.

A local climber friend upgraded the chains and steel biners on the existing (lowered) anchors last summer. But they weren't painted and were quite shiny. Because it's a high-hiker-traffic area I didn't care for the shiny anchor chain/biners so I swapped them out a couple weekends ago with painted hardware. That's probably what you noticed most recently. Mar 31, 2015
I noticed someone recently moved bolt #5 and the anchors a tad lower. Mar 30, 2015
Aaronjames
Socorro new mexico
  5.10d
Aaronjames   Socorro new mexico
  5.10d
Almost felt like I was climbing a steep 5.11 in datil nm, but the rock quality was too good and the moves were actually technical for the steepness. Definitely a classic and not a gimme for the grade:) Mar 26, 2015
skelldify
  5.10d
skelldify  
  5.10d
There are some very large holds on the ledge below the anchors that felt like they could come off if someone pulled too hard on them. Be careful here!

Definitely one of the steepest 5.10s I've been on. Steeper, and taller, than it appears. However, there are a couple good rests. Clipping the anchors was a little tricky, and caught me off guard. Great route! Jan 26, 2015
Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10d
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
  5.10d
I agree with Jason. Though I concede that Pumping Huecos is one of the best routes at Las Conchas (probably the very best route, unless you climb 5.12 or 5.13), the movement is ultimately forgettable for me. It's just a steep jug haul, and there are plenty of longer, cooler and better versions of Pumping Huecos at El Rito, Enchanted Tower, etc.

The routes at Upper East Fork tend to be longer and have more unusual (and therefore more fun, at least for me) moves than those at Las Conchas, this route included. But the rock at UEF is not quite as good, in general.

To each his own, I guess. Jul 1, 2010
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10d
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.10d
Josh Williams wrote:This route is so freaking amazing! It's a shame that there aren't more routes of this quality in the vicinity.
There are. Just head upstream a bit. :-) Jul 1, 2010
J tot
Tempe, AZ
  5.10c
J tot   Tempe, AZ
  5.10c
This route is so freaking amazing! It's a shame that there aren't more routes of this quality in the vicinity. Also it seemed a bit higher than 50ft. Jun 30, 2010
tim naylor  
 
a nice two move wonder 3.5 stars ? Oct 19, 2008
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
  5.10d
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
  5.10d
Great route! Big holds on overhanging rock. Checked out the setup this past weekend and found all bolts to be in good condition. Somebody replaced the anchors with new springer hangers too. Jun 18, 2007
Allison Fritz
Los Alamos, New Mexico
  5.10d
Allison Fritz   Los Alamos, New Mexico
  5.10d
One of my favorite routes at Las Conchas. The 5th bolt probably needs to be replaced. It is not loose but rock is missing around part of the bolt. I think there are 6 bolts. Nov 6, 2006