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Routes in Leaning Tower

Blinded by the Light S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Craggy Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lichen Attack Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mainliner S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Original Route (aka Mean Leaner) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sausage Candles S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Second Thought S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tiny Propeller S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tupelo Chain Sex S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Will of the Wasp S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Elevation: 8,500 ft
GPS: 35.822, -106.541 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 8,027 total · 63/month
Shared By: Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) on Apr 18, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
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Description

A huge leaning chunk of rock about a mile back in the canyon. A big crack splits the overhanging south face of this tower.

Getting There

Simply follow the trail from the Las Conchas parking area for about 20 minutes downstream. After roughly 15 minutes and crossing the third wooden bridge over the river, you'll come to The Sponge on the north (right) side of the creek. Keep hiking for a few more minutes and the Leaning Tower will be the brilliant and obvious wall on your right.

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Leaning Tower

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
These routes might be the product of Wpenner? I recall being told about a few routes down that way by him or Arron Chavez, the white mexican, and yes I believe they were all supposed to be 5.11 and 5.12 Sep 18, 2011
William Penner
The 505
William Penner   The 505
Lee is correct, those are four routes I bolted a few years ago.

The left three are somewhere between 5.11c and 5.12a. The right one is a bit harder. As George noted, two of these climbs are at least 90 ft tall making them the longest routes at Las Conchas other than Mainliner and Mean Leaner on the Leaning Tower. They were bolted for stick-clipping and the cruxes are quite hard and difficult to figure out.

I have never heard a name for the formation these are located on. Given how long it took for routes to go up on this chunk of rock, Hidden Tower seems more appropriate. Tupelo Chain Sex is way left of these routes, just uphill and around the corner from the Leaning Tower. It is so named because it uses chain for hangers (classic ghetto bolting technique from the early 90s). It also looks like a complete turd-pile with few redeeming features.

What lines did you do George?

W Sep 19, 2011
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
So when are you going to post up the route beta, W? Sep 19, 2011

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