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Routes in Leaning Tower

Blinded by the Light S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Craggy Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lichen Attack Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mainliner S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Original Route (aka Mean Leaner) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sausage Candles S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Second Thought S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tiny Propeller S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tupelo Chain Sex S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Will of the Wasp S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Mike Baker and Leslie Henderson
Page Views: 245 total, 2/month
Shared By: Scott Beguin on May 6, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This is a painful and exciting continuous finger to hand crack up a slightly overhanging right facing dihedral. Once you take off on the climb it stays on you most of the way, but does offer a least one good rest above the crux section midway up. Tape recommended.

Location

This is the obvious crack system to the left of The Leaning Tower, just right of Second Thought

Protection

Stoppers, a double set of Aliens and Camalots up to a #4.
2-bolt anchor with chains on right side of crack at the top.

Photos

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William Penner
The 505
 
William Penner   The 505
 
2-bolt anchor with chains now present on right side of crack at the top. Jun 8, 2008